In Fine Company - TransAtlantic Leg One

Our lovely crew on the first evening out of Tanger, a cold sunset enjoyed on the bow.  It is still relatively calm.  We are motorsailing upwind contrary to all forecasts.

This was a unique passage for Peter and I in many ways.  First, our darling daughter, Emily, was joining us.  She was the first of our family to passage with us and we were excited for her to experience this part of our current lifestyle.

At the helm, Em is practising to take over from the captain ....and reading her novel.

Emily brought two of her childhood sailing buddies from SLYC, Georgia and Rebecca, who she had learned to sail with, raced with, taught with, coached with and partied with over at least a decade of summers.  The last ten years, though, they have only seen each other a few times a year at best.  This was an intensive re-immersion.

Rebecca and Georgia still smiling and looking relaxed after their first night on watch

Five crew on Milly while on passage was also new.  We have had four with two couples on each hull but five meant one in the little berth in the port bow, five for two heads (one being in the bow which meant levitating while eliminating in big seas), and lots of food and stuff around.  We all did remarkably well in small quarters really limited to the hulls, salon and cockpit.  The bow was wet and uncomfortable in the conditions we experienced so was off-limits except for dolphin watching, a sunset sit and a big swell view one day.  Five also meant the huge luxury of sleep.  We each did two and a half hour watches once a night!  Peter and I do two, three and a half hour watches each when we passage on our own.  We arrived in Lanzarote wet and salty but ready to explore without crashing for a day or two.

It was probably the coldest passage Peter and I have done.  It is recommended that boats leave Europe for the Canaries in September, latest October, because the fall/winter low pressure systems rolling over the North Atlantic bring stronger and less predictable winds, very large swell and frigid temperatures.  We left Tanger on November 13th, a little late and, hence, cold and cloudy with swell over four meters.  We were happy to be heading south to warmer climes.

Although it was the first leg of our TransAtlantic, we were only about ten NM off the Moroccan coast.  This brought with it a few extra concerns that is not usual on an offshore passage:  lots of shipping traffic, always intimidating, especially for those new to night watch and in four meter swell even the huge tankers were lost from sight unless we were on a swell peak.  Fishing drift nets marked at best by teeny, weeny black flags and at worst by a small buoy were another concern.  In flat water these are relatively easy to see and avoid but in four meter swell with white caps almost impossible.  We made a point to sail outside the 100m depth contour as a precaution but not a guarantee.  Getting a net off our prop or rudder in four meter sea would be a nightmare we wanted to avoid.  Along with nets came fishing boats, rarely on AIS and with strange lights that made it tough to tell what direction they were travelling especially when they disappeared when we were in a trough only to bounce back into view for a second when we rode a peak.  Taking an accurate bearing was almost impossible.

Finally, we had never sailed for more than 60 hours with such tiny reefed sails.  From Tanger for the first 14 hours or so we were headed upwind, motor sailing and at one point included our larger head sail, the screecher, until the wind picked up enough to make it unwise.  For the rest of the passage we had genoa only, most often to it's second reef, sometimes even more so it looked like a handkerchief on the bow.  And we still travelled at 6-8 knots mainly because of the enormous swell we were surfing down.

Arrived in Lanzarote after a 96 hour rollicking sail.  Celebrating early with Spritzes.  At least it looks like OJ.

Patience was require for the last sixteen hours or so.  We wanted to cruise down the coast of Lanzarote in daylight so we could view the island but we were due to arrive at port in the middle of the night.  We chose to go as slowly as possible with our tiny reefed sail, doing S-curves along the rum line.  Lanzarote is one of the only coasts we have been on that is more intriguing and stunning from land than from sea so our delayed arrival was not really necessary but did show the girls how frustrating it can be to arrive at night to an unknown harbour and have to dally around until daylight as Peter and I have done so many times before.

The captain and crew, cleaned up and ready to explore Lanzarote.  A few more adventures to come.  

All in all, the passage was active and lively.  The girls were fantastic.  On night watch, they gently called us occasionally for assistance which we insisted on, of course.  Through the day, they were keen and game to change sails, pull lines, navigate, take the helm, do the dishes, cook, tidy up, and ask questions.  We loved having them along and are hoping for more adventures in their company!  We miss you!!

November 13-17, 2019.

Georgia's take - TransAtlantic Leg One

Cast of characters:  The author, Georgia.  Always cheerful.  We would never have known she was nervous!

It is always fun to get a guest's perspective on Milly.  All three girls were adept at dinghy sailing and so understood the wind and sailing theory.  Emily has sailed with us on Milly numerous times but never for more than a daysail.   Georgia and Rebecca had sailed on larger boats but never overnight or on passage or in blue water.  Georgia's bog post benefits from the passage as a new experience.

Rebecca, coiling the lines on departure.  Happy and confident.

Emily.  She belongs on Milly with a smile like that on leaving the dock.

The captain

The first mate.

Georgia's take and fantastic photos (although the captions are mine, as you can probably tell):

Day time: Is mostly hanging about, reading, chatting, cooking, eating, and for the last two days having a constantly captivating view of the enormous oncoming swell as it approaches the rear and starboard side of the boat. 

Night time: Big grey waters, moonlight, stars, clouds. battle ship digital screen of the chart plotter. Cruising cargo tankers looking like toy ships in the distance only to realise they are 224 m long. 2.5 hour shifts, taking in the water, listening to a pod cast, keeping an eye on neighbouring boats, and ensuring we stay on course, and keep the sails in check. 

Captains hour: Throughout the day, each person moves around on their own schedule. Casually having conversations, napping, reading, and taking turns with meal prep in the galley. But once a day, Captain’s hour is a fun hour where everyone comes together. Have a cold brew, and chitchat about the days events.

A lesson on the chart plotter prior to first night watch.  Serious students.

One of the few times I took a line.  With three keen crew, my first mate job was very easy.

Father and daughter, father loving every moment of it.

Its been 656 NM, 95 hours, 4 night watches, 4 days, and we have nearly arrived at our waypoint: Lanzarote

It’s a different experience on a catamaran. Shifting through the water, flopping from side to side over crests of waves. Hearing the drum of the water make contact with the hull, the creak of the floor boards, and the mechanics below in the twisting downwind dance with the waves.

Rebecca enjoying the enormous swell.

Georgia learning the ropes

The frustratingly difficult job of taking a bearing on swollen seas.

Feeling excited by the concept of reaching land.  This is the first time in open waters on a sailing vessel and although having taught sailing and been brought up around dinghies, nothing quite compares to the the feeling of the boat moving through the massive body of water around you and feeling Milly juggle the tumbling waves off a 4 metre swell. Its been fun figuring out how to move around, to not be phased by all the sounds (the first night I was up about every 30 minutes to check out what was happening above water at each shift in sound or changing angle of the boat).

Having spent the last three and a half days out at ‘Sea’ it has been an exhilarating experience learning what life is like on Milly. At moments there is the presence of deep focus trying to reef in a sail in heavier winds, or navigating how ‘not to’ pinch your fingers off in the winch while letting out the sail, but for the most part Milly is oddly comforting to be aboard while cruising through the big, wavy bathtub of dark blue water off the coast of Northern Africa.

The idea of over night sailing was a scary one for me but something I have always wanted to do. Its good to face the things you are afraid of, and what better way to do than with my two old friends and the welcoming, guiding hand of Sally and Peter on Milly. 

Time for contemplation of the sea and world.  It is an awesome privilege.

Crew Has Arrived - TransAtlantic Leg One

Our beautiful crew, Rebecca, Em and Georgia, exploring the old town of Tangier, charming all the shopkeepers.   They grew up together, sailing dinghies on Stony Lake.  Now they are on Milly having travelled from Victoria, B.C., Toronto and India, we are so happy to have them aboard.

Jumping to Tangier, this post takes you out of chronological order.  But the TransAtlantic deserves prompt coverage, especially as Emily and two of her childhood cottage sailor friends are joining us for the first leg - Tangier to Canary Islands - about 580 NM.  It is so fun for Peter and I to watch their excitement.  It reignites ours!

Some serious rug shopping.  Difficult choices but each found a rug to take home.  Georgia was especially good at bartering.

A plethora of olives,

spices, herbs, and lots of mysterious unknowns.

The guy selling scarves retied Georgia's, just so.

Although Milly spent ten days on the hard getting her bottom painted, her topsides polished, cutlass bearing unexpectedly replaced in Gibraltar, she still needed some work.  Rigging checked, 12 volt water maker reinstalled, fresh produce purchased, safety lecture completed etc. etc., we are ready to sail tomorrow a.m., November 13.  The forecast predicts a downwind sail in 20-30 knots with 3-4 meter waves.  It will be rollicking!  And the girls are looking forward to it...a little nervously.

It is exciting to be back in colourful North Africa, a great pitstop.

Elba - Our First Circumnavigation

We enjoyed several of Blub's masterpieces decorating metal service boxes on house walls around the island.

Elba, the largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago, was a beautiful, manageable island (only 223 square km.) with sweet towns and well-marked, rough trails.  With the fickle Med wind which changes direction several times daily, we circumnavigated the island in a successful search for safe anchorage.  After our disappointingly quick scoot up the Corsican coast, we slowed down and spent some languid days exploring Elba.  No matter how much time I spend in a place, however, there is usually more to see.  Can't quite figure out why Napoleon didn't just kick up his heels and stay. 

A lighthouse on the west shore gave us a stunning view in the early morning after an all-night sail from Corsica up the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Corsican Channel.

Reminiscent of the Azores with "beaches" of rock enjoyed by many, Elba's sand is hard to find.  It might be hard and lumpy but much more attractive and appealing than the battalions of beach umbrellas found on any stretch of real sand on the Italian mainland.

Portoferraio, the capital city, with citadel and pastel buildings.  Taken from the huge protected bay and anchorage where we spent a few nights.  Napoleon's house was perched near the top looking north toward the Ligurian Sea.

Blub in his blue period.

Napoleon's town mansion.  He also had a country estate a few miles away.  I'm sure not as opulent as what he was used to, but not bad as a punishment.  The Treaty of Fontainebleau in 1814 dethroned him and exiled him to beautiful Elba where he was essentially sovereign.  During his months on the island, he carried out a number of economic and social reforms.

This "parade bed" used while the an entourage moved from one city to another, was the primary feature in the living room and only sitting area in the house.  Rather strange.

Napoleon's sister, Pauline, came to Elba to live with him.  Her lovely cape was an accessory to a very simple white cotton floor length, climate-sensible dress.

Napoleon added his garden to the estate while exiled.  He was allowed a personal guard of 600 men but the island was closely guarded by the French and British navies.  On February 26, 1815 he managed to sneak past his guards, get by an intercepting British ship and return to France.  His exile was ten months long.

Elba was mined extensively on the east coast Piombino Channel.  The abandoned buildings and scarred slopes did not seem to distract the multitudes of bathers on the beach.

We were being closely monitored on our hike.

Our anchorage at Porto Azzuro on the west coast was lovely.  The town was celebrating a music festival.  In the evening, we watched in disbelief as a singer, a guitarist and a pianist performed together from separate floating rafts in the bay.  The piano legs were submerged as were the angels of the guy playing and the vocalist grooved in inches on water.  Luckily, the piano was white and probably didn't show the salt stains.  The groups sound was occasionally distorted by waves.  

Charming Marciano full of artists' boutiques.  

Blub was everywhere.

Our hike took us to a chapel and monastery Napoleon used to frequent to contemplate and meet a lover.  It's peaceful isolation served both purposes, I guess.  These wonderful carvings were on the raw rock walls surrounding a fountain's pool.

A handwritten sign on the chapel door requested that the door remain ajar so a bird nesting on the chandelier inside could fly in and out without worries.

Leaving Elba from the quaint town of Marciano Marina.  We had hiked up to the hillside town on the right through thick woods of chestnut trees.