Grenada Quarantine

The view from behind the bars of our quarantine terrace.

We're home floating at anchor on Milly!  Traveling back to Grenada during covid times was a bit of a process but it's done now.  To be repeated in the reverse direction in May, we hope.

To be clear, Grenada is trying very hard to make entering their country as a tourist work while keeping their citizens safe from disease.  Their GDP and livelihood of the population depends on it.  Our experience, apart from the boatyard protocol, was efficient, smooth and provided by smiling, friendly and helpful staff whether at the airport, testing, taxi or hotel.

The process began in Canada.  Grenada requires a negative PCR test taken within 7 days of the flight.  Our timing on this was not the best:  Ontario had a backlog of tens of thousands of tests which required a change in policy and made getting the tests and results in a timely manner a little more awkward.  We decided to go through the new pharmacy route but on calling the closest pharmacy to Em and Gid's new home, there were "a thousand" people ahead of us for the first step of having the pharmacist call back for assessment.  Didn't sound promising.  Just getting past the busy signal and the robot required multiple calls.  Anne got on one phone and myself on another.  We each eventually got through and the first pharmacist to call back got our business - not that they were low on clientele.  PCR test done and results received in about 72 hours, two days before our flight.

Emily kindly drove us to the airport at 6:30 a.m. on a Saturday - very generous sacrifice of sleep-in time for her and greatly appreciated by us.

We had anticipated that YYZ would be quiet.  Not so!  It was bedlam.  Line ups were longer than we had ever seen, snaking back and forth, immobile.  In thirty minutes we moved about a foot.  Although everyone wore masks, social distancing was impossible.

Through the usual rigamarole - told we're in the incorrect line, moved as directed, repeat and repeat again.  Extra payment for heavy baggage!, more line-ups, security, hanging about to board.  And, finally we boarded onto the relative peace of the plane.  "We" meaning all 300 of us - it was completely full.  Again, social distancing impossible.  

Seatbelt buckled but no movement.  Announcement - "Mechanical failure" requiring attention.  Unnerving but at least they were paying attention.  Too bad they hadn't found it before getting everyone on board.  About an hour later, new announcement - couldn't fix it, missing part which was being delivered.  Hmmm.  Another hour and another announcement - current staff will not be able to do flight as it will take them past allowable shift length.   New staff required.  For some reason, this meant that all passengers had to disembark with all personal items to wait in airport.

We certainly want to be on an airplane that flies without mishap from a mechanical problem and/or missing part and with staff who are not falling asleep.  Obediently, we all get off.  This was actually a blessing for Peter and I.  Not having eaten and going to a hotel without a dining room and no groceries on order, we were able to wolf down a largish breakfast/lunch in the only open restaurant while we waited with a $10 each voucher applied (which we waited for approximately 20 minutes - printer broken and had to be replaced!).  Time to order a few groceries to our Grenada apartment and notify hotel to expect them.

Finally, boarded a second time.  Uneventful flight.  Mechanical problem fixed as far as oblivious passengers were concerned.  I watched two movies and cried surreptitiously behind my mask and glasses.  Perhaps unwise to watch a tearjerker on a crowded plane.  My family is used to it but the woman beside me was not.

Our quarantine home for at least five nights - elongated to ten for us.  Dengue fever, spread by mosquitoes, is ravaging the locals and cruisers in Grenada.  We requested a mosquito net but we were so close to the sea that mozzies were no problem.  The net came down.

Disembark in warm and humid Grenada.  All 300 herded by many hired hands whose sole job seemed to be smiling and directing us into another crowded room to wait health assessment.  After spending more than five hours with fellow-passengers another bout of sitting cheek by jowl didn't matter.  Temperature taken, forms completed, signatures written, telephone numbers given each at a different station by different smiling locals who I'm sure were so pleased to have employment again with borders fully open.

The astroturf-clad stairs going up to the octagonal bath for two.  The apartment was a bit dated - 1970's? - but large and comfortable.  Sadly, it was clear that the 'palace' is now being run on a shoestring budget.

Customs official - only one who was not smiling - nailed all cruisers for boat parts loaded into suitcases.  We declared a bit and paid a small amount considering what we were carrying.

Special taxi takes us to our apartment where we were greeted by lovely manager.  She had put groceries away for us and beer and wine in fridge.  We had chosen the Grand Anse Beach 'Palace' Hotel because it was a reasonable price, had a kitchen, a view of biggest beach in Grenada and, best of all, we were allowed to leave our room to swim in the sea! 

Many other Canadian cruisers were staying at the hotel.  We all chatted while submerged each afternoon.  Days were spent wandering from bedroom to kitchen to terrace to bathroom - yoga, drawing, reading plus preoccupation with the US election which provided great diversion.

Day four a small battalion of nurses arrived to do the paperwork and the C-19 test with a promise of results in 24-48 hours.  Six hours later the call came that we were all negative and free to leave!  

Free and clear to roam, we went for a walk on the glorious 3km beach.  Our hotel was at the north end.

In the other direction.  Steep, rocky with thick, lush growth promontories separate small secluded beaches on the way north to St. Georges, the capital.  Glorious views make it nice to be back.

Only problem was that Grenada Marine, the boatyard where Milly was waiting, had their own unique and scientifically senseless protocol.  International travelers were not allowed into the yard property until Day 10 after arrival even with a negative test.  Although we could wander at will into the island community, we were not allowed to be in the boatyard where our contacts would be negligible.  Apart from added expense of five additional nights at the hotel plus five additional nights of leaving Milly high and dry plus a bit of frustration, our time was spent hiking and visiting friends - not so bad.

We were finally far enough away from the airport that Peter was allowed to try out his birthday gift from the kids.  He's in red shorts standing on Milly's stern.

A kind local offered us a lift in his pickup as we plodded up the hill in the heat for lunch. 

 

Day ten arrived and so did we.  Milly was dusty and dirty on the outside but dry and clean on the inside.  We put her back together, ready for cruising, in sauna-like conditions over the next three days.  Sleeping on the boat on the hard in the tropics is a test for the constitution.  No running water means everything from bathing, toileting and washing dishes requires dismounting by ladder and a walk to the facilities.  I greatly restricted evening drinking of all fluids to accommodate.

Milly is on the move. 

Gently swinging in her cradle. 

And then, finally, splashing into the sea.

On day 14, Milly splashed.  We were afloat and home!

We stayed at dock one night - long enough to hose her down once again with free marina water.  She most likely won't have another shower until May.  

 

 

 

Addendums:

 

We found this little guest on our doormat about a week after he/she? had come aboard in the boatyard.  Some cruisers are happy to keep a gecko onboard to eat insects.  I could only imagine waking to a creepy-crawlie sensation  We carefully took him back to shore.

Addendum:  Air Canada awarded us each a $200 voucher which was completely unexpected.  It will be put to good use in May.

Grenada has recently increased length of quarantine to seven days and no swimming in pool/sea.  We came at just the right time.

Canada Time (featuring wedding pics)

 

Traditionally, our season begins with raising the flag on the cedar flagpole.  Although the kids had used the cottage all summer, the flag did not go up until August 11th when we arrived.  The cottage was ready.  Let the summer begin...late!

We had a truly wonderful holiday/visit - what do I call it? - time in Canada.  Despite the strangeness of covid restrictions and being unable to visit with many friends and some family, we thoroughly enjoyed our 10 week stay.  We plan to become commuter sailors, at least for the next few years, to enjoy summer in Canada.  Hopefully, Covid-19 and it's many limitations will be a thing of the past and visiting/visitors will once again be part of our home-coming. 

Visitors and visiting:

My dear bro and family came for a quick but superb visit on their way to TO.

Breakfast with a view

And then we got to be the visitors, at the new build home of more "family", Anne and Rob.  We even have our own room there.  Well, we share it with others but it does have our names on it.  Haven't left a toothbrush yet.

Poolside action.  Too chilly for water action.

In chronological order the 2020 visit was highlighted by: weekend visits to the cottage - even during our quarantine - by our children; lunch with our stalwart crew, Lee; two visits to our dear friend's new build in The Blue Mountains; a tour of a city new build followed by dinner with family; more dinners with family in Toronto; outdoor lunch and lovely visit with Raymond and Liz; mother-of-the-bride dress shopping with Anne who encouraged try-ons of dresses that would never have caught my eye, one of which I chose (Thanks, Anne!); a Stony visit from my dear bro, sister-in-law, and nephews; a few visits with Stony Lake friends including those who we started the covid crisis with in Martinique; shared captain's hours with young Stony Lake friends on our deck; multiple romps with Stevie, the dog, at The Beach.  (Hope I didn't miss anything).  

It was topped off with quality time spent with Tom at the cottage during his two week quarantine upon returning from regattas and training in Europe, Gid and Em's truly perfect wedding, a move into Gid and Em's new beautiful home and, finally, a 60th (early) birthday party for Peter.

A few cottage happenings:

Peter with crew Emily got out on the hobie only once but for a race with a sister boat.  They won!  The other boat were loaded with a crew of about six plus beer.  Peter and Em were much more serious!

Very happy captain with crew

No stick is too big for Stevie Girl.

The old part of the cottage gets elevated out of the soil and supported on a few well-placed pieces of granite by Tom and Peter.  Saved for another few years and set up for work in the spring.

My birthday dinner made by my two favourite men, Peter and Tom!

And now for the extra special wedding weekend:

 

Blogspot will not allow me to put these two pics in the right order - at least, I can't figure it out.  The hike was followed by a picnic wine-tasting covid style.

First up, a hike through sand dunes to one of the incredible beaches in Prince Edward County.  Reminiscent of ocean coastline but with freshwater.  

 

 

And then the legal "I do's" at a local brewery.  Fantastic dinner and celebration.  The only covid in evidence was the officiant's mask.  The wedding party, having all tested negative days before, were much more relaxed and the excellent brewery staff followed suit.

The new husband and wife with our new parents-in-law.  We look forward to many years of friendship.

After a morning of preparation, we gathered at the venue on a beautiful, blue sky day for the main event. We were so proud to make the walk down the grassy aisle.

Beautiful and happy bride and gorgeous chuppah made a wondrous setting.

Gid's three sisters officiated in such a personal fashion that it was the nicest and most meaningful ceremony I have ever been to.  Of course, I'm biased, but I really think it was.  Tears of happiness flowed!

 Lisa did a Shakespeare reading - no surprise - with a perfect personal note of humour and love.

After our tears of joy were dried we all celebrated.  Loved every minute of it.

The sibs!

The cousins got to enjoy each other's company again

The sweet and lively ringbearer doled out flowers to all the guests late into the evening.

No dancing allowed so the night was full of warm and heartfelt toasts and speeches.  In their speech, Em and Gid each warmly  addressed every person in attendance.  Very special.  Couldn't do that with 150!

Father of the bride couldn't have been prouder of his darling daughter.  And warmly and sincerely welcomed Gid into our family.

That's it for now.  The photographer and friend whose generous wedding present was her professional services will deliver more pics and videos soon.  It will be tough not to share some more so stay tuned.

The excitement did not stop there.  There's more:

After a good year of looking at future homes, G&E settled on The Beach, Emily's childhood neighbourhood and perhaps satisfying Gid's west coast roots.  We helped pack and unpack.  So fun to be part of another life event when we usually live so far away.  It is a wonderful home for a long future together.

The kids celebrated Peter's 60th a tad early with a gift of a drone - high on his wish list!  He was tickled.  Now you will be treated with aerials of Milly and her anchorages.

We were busy!

These major events were dotted with cottage TLC which included a few purchases and lots of labour by Peter and Tom, when he was there.  Grasses and weeds have been banished from my garden and the beds are ready for spring planting.

By October 20th - the longest we had ever stayed at Stony - we were waking up to heaters and Peter's rapidly set fire.  The pipes didn't freeze but us softies from the tropics did!  We renewed our appreciation of the Ontario fall colours but hightailed it to the heated homes and companionship of friends and family for the final ten days of our Canadian stay.

Tom playing lumberjack complete with shirt.  Should've been an axe though, not a pint-size chain saw.

A sensational Stony Lake morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New dock is lifted and ready for snow and ice.  We're already excited to get back in May and put it back down!

We count ourselves very lucky to have two places we can call home.  Although sad to leave each, we are excited to return to each.  What could be better!

 

Heading Home for Real?

Milly is slumbering while we head to her home port.  For the two weeks she has been on the hard, we have been working in the sweltering heat to prepare her for hibernation.  A list of well over 100 items have been checked off with a great deal of sweat.  She is ready!

We are booked on a flight leaving today, direct from Grenada to Toronto.   After two canceled flights, on July 6 and August 7, we are very excited to take off but at the same time sad to leave Grenada, a safe and welcoming host country and where we have made many dear friends.

Our work has been relieved with several hikes lead by Peter to mountain peaks, waterfalls or sandy beaches with groups of spunky friends who didn't fret with a couple of wrong turns or lost trails in the overgrown tropical rainforest.

Grenada is a stunningly beautiful island with thick, lush growth.  We walked through giant bamboo groves, down rushing streams, under enormous mango trees.  Bananas, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, breadfruit, citrus of all types, among many, many others were everywhere.  The natural world is glorious here.

We have spent the month with the pessimistic attitude that the flight would not actually take place.  We didn't want to get our hopes up and be disappointed at the last minute as we had been for the July 6 flight.  However, there were signs that our hope would not be dashed.  Late in July, the Grenada national newspaper posted a press release from the government stating that the August 10 Air Canada flight would be the first international commercial flight allowed since borders shut down in March.  We took this as a positive sign, although a press release had also said the airport would open to commercial flights on July 1st - a promise broken only a couple of days before.  All this week we have opened our emails with some dread that we would find the flight cancelled. Each time we saw mail from Air Canada, of which there were several, our/my eyes widened and stomach flipped.  Instead, Air Canada has sent directions and tips of how to manage our safety from infection on the flight.  Although disconcerting, we saw the messages as a positive trend.

A trail had been a little neglected.  An impassable bridge meant fording a stream on foot.  Other trails did not even attempt the bridges.  Often the trail was the stream.

Today, our day of departure, we woke up to two messages from Air Canada with a subject saying there were changes to our itinerary - the same subject that changed our August 7 flight to August 10!  Oh, no!  I could hardly believe it.  Opening the first, it announced that instead of leaving Grenada at 1500 today, the flight would leave at 1100.  The second changed the time back to 1500.  Both emails were sent at exactly the same time.   Repeated looks at departure, arrival times at both airports and a call to the Grenada airport reassured us that 1500 was correct.  We watched virtually as the plane took off from Toronto.  As a dear friend said, our plane couldn't leave before it even gets here.

An especially keen group at the top of Mt QuaQua before heading down to Concord Falls, a trail rated "extremely difficult".  Ropes, mud, lost paths, mosquitoes, slippery rocks were challenges that did not stump any of these hikers.

So we are now sitting in our lovely room, waiting.  We will head to the airport in a couple of hours.  Hard to believe!  The plane is fully booked.  I'm sure there will be cheering as we take off.  And maybe even a few tears - leaving friends and our boat homes behind for who knows how long.

Although we plan to return to Milly at the end of October, the uncertainty of being able to do so is huge!  All who are leaving are doing so with trepidation - when will a return be possible, what kind of quarantine will be mandated, where will that quarantine be served, what countries will be open to sail to with/without quarantine?  Like others, our future plans are indeterminable.

But our short term future is almost certain now.  We will spend a few happy months with family and friends while living at the cottage and celebrating Emily and Gid's wedding.  We are very excited!!

Heading Home from our COVID19 Sanctuary....Almost

Carriacou dive map.  Peter and I have basically walked the entire island, some places a number of times.  We were anchored in Tyrrel Bay with over 100 others.

After 103 days, we were leaving our home during COVID-19 quarantine/lockdown/curfew/restrictions.  Carriacou had proved to be one of the best places to be on the planet.  Zero COVID cases because of strict and pretty well-practiced rules.  The entire island was cut off from all visiting boats, including supply/cargo boats for at least two weeks and then only one ship per week for what seemed like ages.  Supplies were slim but cases of infection were nil.

Every night at sunset, the boats in the anchorage blew a horn of some sort.  We were lucky to have been given an enormous conch shell which Peter made into the quintessential horn from the sea.  At first, the horns were meant to acknowledge and thank the frontline workers on the island but it fast became a way of bonding with others in our community.  Peter started with a sputter but after 103 x2 blows his sound has become loud, confident and sonorous.

Locals took very good care of the cruisers who were not allowed to put even a big toe on land.  Diane and Richard of Lumba Dive, voluntarily picked up groceries, free of charge - we couldn't have managed without them.  When restrictions eased a bit, other entrepreneurs delivered necessities including beer and wine, pizzas, fruit and veggies to boats.  Still later, when we were allowed on shore, locals were kind, helpful and happy to see us, masks and all.

By the time, our day of departure arrived we had been hiking, biking and diving.  Domino matches at restaurants and once on Milly were becoming regular events.  Two organized beach clean-ups made us feel like we were giving back a tiny bit of the hospitality we'd received from the islanders.  A covert beach party or two on a deserted island where many of us gathered for a few days all went without a hiccup - even though against protocol, we had all been isolated for more than three months and were hidden from the population by palm trees, sandbanks and a large expanse of water.  And then there was all the work to ready Milly - cleaning every surface and all things fabric, eating as much of the stored food as possible, readying the engines, fixing smaller items.  All told the list to leave included over 100 items, taking minutes to days and scheduled for days in advance or after hauling out.

Dominos on Milly.  From left to right, crews of Milly, Victoria's Ghost, English Rose and Mehalah.

We had made some very good friends who I hope we will meet again sometime, somewhere.  It was very difficult to leave.  The morning after our farewell party, Peter steered Milly by some of the boats saying, "good-bye" over the hailer as we went.  Many came out on deck to wave and blow kisses.  By the mouth of the bay, I was blubbering.  No surprise!  Thank you, dear friends!

The first of our exotic holidays to Sandy Island, essentially a sandbank.  After a hurricane devastated the island several years ago, the Kayaks - nickname for the locals on Carriacou - replanted palms.  Huge banks of coral thrown up by the waves protect the windward side from erosion.  It is now idyllic.  Wonderful snorkelling on the northern tip.  Peter, like any good Canadian, built several tall, sturdy inukshuks. 

After a rollicking game of Molkii - a Finish lawn bowling type game we learned in Turkey! - with friends, we enjoyed a sunset through the palms.

Another night away to Anse La Roche at the northern tip of Carriacou.  We were the only overnight boat at the beach but there were leatherback turtle trails out of the sea and up the sand to obvious nests so we probably did have nocturnal company unknown to us.  Huge iguanas visited the beach at sunset to dig for something or other.  

Another sunset at Sandy.  It never gets old!

The first stage of our planned trip to Toronto, although delayed from mid-May, was on a scheduled Air Canada flight on July 6th.  The Prime Minister had promised to open the airport to international commercial flights on July 1.  St. Lucia and Antigua had already opened in June.  During the last week in Carriacou, an ex-pat told us that she had been speaking with someone at the Ministry of Tourism who reported that the industry would not be ready with protocol requirements until the end of July.  Even Rufus, the local veggie man, seemed doubtful that the PM would keep his promise.  We were optimistic - surely flights to Canada would take place.

These tortoises are supposed to be endangered but we saw several on every hike.  Sweet little guys.  

Forever hopeful, we left our Carriacou sanctuary on June 28.  By the time we reached Grenada after a glorious sail, several friends had emailed that the PM had made a speech the night before saying the airport would not open on July 1 and opening would be "reassessed" on July 25 at the earliest.  His reasoning was that the bulk of Grenada's tourists were from USA and allowing their holiday-making put the health of the islanders at jeopardy.

We remained positive.  The Air Canada flight to Toronto was sold out and I counted 35 seats sold on the flight from Toronto to Grenada.  This seemed like a positive business event for AC.  Hopefully Canadians were considered to be less risky.  By noon, though we had our disappointing email - the flight was canceled.

The mood was subdued on Milly.  We had looked forward to quarantining at our cottage with our son, Tom, who was also flying on July 6th from Finland where he has been for months.  Our list of projects was long.  Emily was going to stock the cottage with food and drink and jigsaw puzzles.  We would be busy and happy in fun company.  Emily and Gid had already delayed their wedding from the end of July but hoped for some sort of celebration in October with a bigger, brighter party eventually.  We needed/wanted to get home!

And one more, this time from our longterm anchorage in Tyrrel Bay.  Sunsets were rarely clear so only one or two green flashes but the clouds made them particularly colourful.

Social media in Grenada went into high gear.  I, along with many others, wrote to the Canadian High Commissioner office in Barbados who immediately responded saying they had informed "Headquarters" of the problem and were requesting a repatriation flight.  Others were contacting airlines to see how to arrange a charter flight - which was allowed at the Grenada airport.  Still others were planning an exorbitantly expensive private 8-seater charter to Barbados where international commercial flights were promised - again another promise - to begin on July 12.

By June 30, the Canadian government had emailed a form letter saying that there would be no more repatriation flights.  An Air Canada or Sunwing charter looked difficult to arrange and doubtful.  Most people were opting for the Barbados layover.  By today, July 1, Canadians were now thinking Barbados seemed too uncertain.  Back to direct charter flights - even more expensive.  The fee is ridiculous but the opening of the airport is not even promised, let alone with a date.  What to do?

Milly was one of about 130 boats who made Tyrrel Bay their safe harbour during the Covid-19 storm.  It was home!

We are waiting to see what happens...we are practiced at this, as is the rest of the world.  But frustration and disappointment is now part of the equation.  Granted, we will make the most of our time here.  It is a beautiful island with lots to do.  Restrictions are gradually lifting.  We have a few friends here and are sure to meet more.  We're ready to haul Milly and race to the airport if the opportunity arises.  Fingers crossed!  Arrrrgh!