21 November 2020

Grenada Quarantine

The view from behind the bars of our quarantine terrace.

We're home floating at anchor on Milly!  Traveling back to Grenada during covid times was a bit of a process but it's done now.  To be repeated in the reverse direction in May, we hope.

To be clear, Grenada is trying very hard to make entering their country as a tourist work while keeping their citizens safe from disease.  Their GDP and livelihood of the population depends on it.  Our experience, apart from the boatyard protocol, was efficient, smooth and provided by smiling, friendly and helpful staff whether at the airport, testing, taxi or hotel.

The process began in Canada.  Grenada requires a negative PCR test taken within 7 days of the flight.  Our timing on this was not the best:  Ontario had a backlog of tens of thousands of tests which required a change in policy and made getting the tests and results in a timely manner a little more awkward.  We decided to go through the new pharmacy route but on calling the closest pharmacy to Em and Gid's new home, there were "a thousand" people ahead of us for the first step of having the pharmacist call back for assessment.  Didn't sound promising.  Just getting past the busy signal and the robot required multiple calls.  Anne got on one phone and myself on another.  We each eventually got through and the first pharmacist to call back got our business - not that they were low on clientele.  PCR test done and results received in about 72 hours, two days before our flight.

Emily kindly drove us to the airport at 6:30 a.m. on a Saturday - very generous sacrifice of sleep-in time for her and greatly appreciated by us.

We had anticipated that YYZ would be quiet.  Not so!  It was bedlam.  Line ups were longer than we had ever seen, snaking back and forth, immobile.  In thirty minutes we moved about a foot.  Although everyone wore masks, social distancing was impossible.

Through the usual rigamarole - told we're in the incorrect line, moved as directed, repeat and repeat again.  Extra payment for heavy baggage!, more line-ups, security, hanging about to board.  And, finally we boarded onto the relative peace of the plane.  "We" meaning all 300 of us - it was completely full.  Again, social distancing impossible.  

Seatbelt buckled but no movement.  Announcement - "Mechanical failure" requiring attention.  Unnerving but at least they were paying attention.  Too bad they hadn't found it before getting everyone on board.  About an hour later, new announcement - couldn't fix it, missing part which was being delivered.  Hmmm.  Another hour and another announcement - current staff will not be able to do flight as it will take them past allowable shift length.   New staff required.  For some reason, this meant that all passengers had to disembark with all personal items to wait in airport.

We certainly want to be on an airplane that flies without mishap from a mechanical problem and/or missing part and with staff who are not falling asleep.  Obediently, we all get off.  This was actually a blessing for Peter and I.  Not having eaten and going to a hotel without a dining room and no groceries on order, we were able to wolf down a largish breakfast/lunch in the only open restaurant while we waited with a $10 each voucher applied (which we waited for approximately 20 minutes - printer broken and had to be replaced!).  Time to order a few groceries to our Grenada apartment and notify hotel to expect them.

Finally, boarded a second time.  Uneventful flight.  Mechanical problem fixed as far as oblivious passengers were concerned.  I watched two movies and cried surreptitiously behind my mask and glasses.  Perhaps unwise to watch a tearjerker on a crowded plane.  My family is used to it but the woman beside me was not.

Our quarantine home for at least five nights - elongated to ten for us.  Dengue fever, spread by mosquitoes, is ravaging the locals and cruisers in Grenada.  We requested a mosquito net but we were so close to the sea that mozzies were no problem.  The net came down.

Disembark in warm and humid Grenada.  All 300 herded by many hired hands whose sole job seemed to be smiling and directing us into another crowded room to wait health assessment.  After spending more than five hours with fellow-passengers another bout of sitting cheek by jowl didn't matter.  Temperature taken, forms completed, signatures written, telephone numbers given each at a different station by different smiling locals who I'm sure were so pleased to have employment again with borders fully open.

The astroturf-clad stairs going up to the octagonal bath for two.  The apartment was a bit dated - 1970's? - but large and comfortable.  Sadly, it was clear that the 'palace' is now being run on a shoestring budget.

Customs official - only one who was not smiling - nailed all cruisers for boat parts loaded into suitcases.  We declared a bit and paid a small amount considering what we were carrying.

Special taxi takes us to our apartment where we were greeted by lovely manager.  She had put groceries away for us and beer and wine in fridge.  We had chosen the Grand Anse Beach 'Palace' Hotel because it was a reasonable price, had a kitchen, a view of biggest beach in Grenada and, best of all, we were allowed to leave our room to swim in the sea! 

Many other Canadian cruisers were staying at the hotel.  We all chatted while submerged each afternoon.  Days were spent wandering from bedroom to kitchen to terrace to bathroom - yoga, drawing, reading plus preoccupation with the US election which provided great diversion.

Day four a small battalion of nurses arrived to do the paperwork and the C-19 test with a promise of results in 24-48 hours.  Six hours later the call came that we were all negative and free to leave!  

Free and clear to roam, we went for a walk on the glorious 3km beach.  Our hotel was at the north end.


In the other direction.  Steep, rocky with thick, lush growth promontories separate small secluded beaches on the way north to St. Georges, the capital.  Glorious views make it nice to be back.

Only problem was that Grenada Marine, the boatyard where Milly was waiting, had their own unique and scientifically senseless protocol.  International travelers were not allowed into the yard property until Day 10 after arrival even with a negative test.  Although we could wander at will into the island community, we were not allowed to be in the boatyard where our contacts would be negligible.  Apart from added expense of five additional nights at the hotel plus five additional nights of leaving Milly high and dry plus a bit of frustration, our time was spent hiking and visiting friends - not so bad.

We were finally far enough away from the airport that Peter was allowed to try out his birthday gift from the kids.  He's in red shorts standing on Milly's stern.



A kind local offered us a lift in his pickup as we plodded up the hill in the heat for lunch. 
 

Day ten arrived and so did we.  Milly was dusty and dirty on the outside but dry and clean on the inside.  We put her back together, ready for cruising, in sauna-like conditions over the next three days.  Sleeping on the boat on the hard in the tropics is a test for the constitution.  No running water means everything from bathing, toileting and washing dishes requires dismounting by ladder and a walk to the facilities.  I greatly restricted evening drinking of all fluids to accommodate.


Milly is on the move. 

Gently swinging in her cradle. 


And then, finally, splashing into the sea.

On day 14, Milly splashed.  We were afloat and home!

We stayed at dock one night - long enough to hose her down once again with free marina water.  She most likely won't have another shower until May.     

Addendums:

 

We found this little guest on our doormat about a week after he/she? had come aboard in the boatyard.  Some cruisers are happy to keep a gecko onboard to eat insects.  I could only imagine waking to a creepy-crawlie sensation  We carefully took him back to shore.

Addendum:  Air Canada awarded us each a $200 voucher which was completely unexpected.  It will be put to good use in May.

Grenada has recently increased length of quarantine to seven days and no swimming in pool/sea.  We came at just the right time.

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