Tripping North

Sunset behind mainland mountains.

After reaching safe harbour in North Landfall, Santa Catarina, we recovered for six days, working on odds and ends on the boat, exploring Jurere, searching for internet connection daily, restocking groceries, cleaning bodies, boat and clothes (We had two baskets of laundry cleaned for $60 CDN.  A bit of a shock - but I think each piece of clothing was ironed!) and, on the last day, renting a car to explore the greater island.

Souped up tractor does the work at the marina

"Tall ship" with stubby masts are party boats seen in every harbour.

Our first impression of Brazil was very positive.  Besides pictures of Rio, we had no clear expectation of what the geography would be like.  It is stunningly beautiful.  Very steep, jungle clad hills/mountains going down to long, wide expanses of fine, white sand beach or to enormous, rounded boulders.  Blue sky and sea on our first days made it picture perfect.

Praia Mole on Ilha de Santa Catarina - surfers just out of view

Praia Mole

After a perfect sail downwind!, we anchored in Caixo d’Aco even more beautiful small anchorage, surrounded on three sides by those steep, green hills with a tiny beach in the bay where children played soccer in the evening under floodlights.  The beach is likely the only flat land in town. 

Enjoying a beautiful sail.

Picture perfect in Caixo d'Aco

The harbour was dotted with colourfully painted fishing dories and on one side of the harbour were about three rows of a variety of colours, shapes and sizes of dwellings. 

Caixo d'Aco means metal box - so we were told.

We shared the harbour with three tiny thatched restaurants on rafts with tables also set on rafts.  Eric, one of the owners, greeted us and suggested we use his wifi which we gratefully did while sitting at a rafted table at his closed, sadly, restaurant (off season).

Site of our internet connection.  We sat at a table once a day.  No service though.

Our plan was to sail north to Itajai on Thursday to see the Volvo Ocean Race boats in action for the inharbour race on Saturday and the start for the Newport leg on Sunday.  We reached Itajai just as the boats were on a training race course.  Very exciting to see these amazing racing machines that we - especially Peter - have been following for months.

Fantastic boats

We checked out the only anchorage in the busy city but in a high wind and incredibly shallow water it was impossible without being extremely close to another boat whose owner promptly set up shop on deck after putting out some extra fenders, we gave up.  The city offered no other dockage, moorings, or anchorages.  So, regrettably missing the Volvo action but grateful that we had seen the training, off we went into what was now wind on the nose and threatening skies…again!!

Unfortunately, I have become a tad more nervous after our long voyage.  I feel it in my cynicism of weather and wind reports particularly and have become a vigilant observer of clouds and waves.  Lately, there always seems to be lots to watch.  As we left Itajai, fishing boats seemed to be hightailing it for harbour, the other way from where we were headed.  The next place listed in our cruising guides was about 40 NM away which would be uncomfortable and get us there at midnight.  

Luckily, on our chart there was a little pink anchor around the next very large point only a couple of hours away.  We decided to go for it in the rain and wind.  Rounding the point, the wind subsided and in the dusk light and pouring rain, we could see a fleet of fishing dories - more than one hundred - and what we assume were mussel farms.  We set anchor, relieved to be in a sheltered harbour.  Funny thing is that once you find shelter, you think that even the sea must be quiet.  Venturing out again?  No way!

We were one of two sailboats in harbour of fishing dories.  

On our way the next day to Sao Francisco do Sol.  Again, unexpected wind!  It’s getting a bit boring, I know, but super frustrating for us, me especially.  Peter loves sailing of all kinds, even up wind with three meter seas and threatening skies all around that required dowsing sails, dodging cells, etc.  By now, you know the drill.  The wind eventually backed though and we enjoyed some fast  beam reach sailing.  Sao Francisco has a long entry between islands and over a shallow sandback which in the high waves was breaking.  We, of course, shortened the route.  By this time we were motoring and with the waves behind us went over the shallower water and surfed at 13 knots.  

Dusk approaching.  We have to get this timing right!  We finally anchored just outside the city center.  The city is tiny so this was not difficult.  And the party was just beginning.  At 8 the live rock and roll band took center stage in our backyard and rocked on until after 3 a.m. 

Next morning we noticed tens of motorcycles arriving to the downtown.  Lo and behold, when we went ashore to explore, there were hundreds of motorcycles parked with their drivers, who must look the same the world over, wandering the streets.  It was an outdoor motorhead show! on a very sweet, colonial, slightly bedraggled main drag.

The restaurant of choice was running out of food and refused to serve us.  We bought some barbecued pork - delicious - and hurried back to the boat to change anchorages.  We were now behind the museum - a bit removed from the party scene but right beside the port where ships were being loaded.  We preferred the industrial drone to head-banging, heavy metal all night. 

Behind the museum.  Our second anchorage.

Up at 3:30 a.m. determined to arrive in Paranagua in daylight.  Cloudy and rainy day but no storms.  A beam reach the entire 40 NM.  After going through the Paranagua shipping anchorage where at least sixty ships were anchored bringing visions of what the invasion fleets must have looked like in WWII, we passed through a narrow channel with breaking waves on both sides.  We arrived at 2 p.m. in daylight - we are learning - to an isolated anchorage.  Apparently, it’s Indigenous Day today and we have chosen an anchorage which is hosting a party out of sight in the jungle.  But we can hear it.  Much better music choices.  We’ll see how it goes tonight.  Tomorrow we plan to move to the yacht club so we can resupply with diesel and extra water.

Jungle on an "ecological hike" at Porto Bella

Vulture with a view

Next voyage has me slightly concerned.  It is a 220 NM trip to Ilhlabela or Ilha de Sao Sebastiao and more predictable weather reportedly.  But again it is a coast of one long beach with only one safe harbour, Santos, the busiest shipping harbour in Brazil.  We plan on skipping it.  Weather permitting!

Once there we will enjoy what some have described as the best cruising location in the world!