A Couple of Tuamotus

Milly in calm, very blue Raroia lagoon

Our route through the Tuamotus.  Each of those amoebic shapes is an atoll - a few of almost 80.  The outline is the reef with some habitable "motus".  The inside is lagoon.  The distance between is too great for a day sail so an overnight sail was required for each hop.

After a 2 1/2 day passage from Fatu Hive in the Marquesas, we arrived at the pass to Raroia, our first ever Pacific atoll.  The Tuamotu archipelago is dotted with atolls - some inhabited, some not, some with passes,  maybe even two passes and some without any at all.  Once in an atoll, you had to find your way to wherever you wanted to anchor through the "mommies" - large coral head that were like pillars from the lagoon bed topping out just below the surface.  These were not charted accurately on our Navionics boat chart plotter which we have used everywhere else.  Peter had bought a new device and uploaded satellite images of the South Pacific areas we were going to.  Multiple overlayed satellite images along with eyes forward (mine) offered the best navigation.  So it was necessary to arrive at any atoll when the inflowing or outflowing current was going with you as you went into or out of the lagoon, with the least amount of conflicting current which creates big "standing" waves, and also when the sunlight is behind wherever you are going within the lagoon so that the bommies are clearly visible.  Finally, when anchoring the anchor chain needed to be floated with fenders or pearl farm buoys.  I've written about this in a "Change of Plans"  so won't go into detail again except that it added yet another unique layer to the Tuamotus experience.  It worked most of the time, although we did get temporarily snagged here and there.  A bit disconcerting as a pull with the windlass on the chain made crunching sounds, and then pulled the bow down.  Releasing the snagged chain was all about Peter approaching from different angles with the aid of my hand signals and while I grimaced as the chain became under tension and then released.  In each case, the chain would suddenly be free and the anchor raised.

Fenders ready to float the chain.  Each fender attached to the chain about 10m apart.

And the chain is floated for the first time in Raroia.  Under the surface the chain is raised above the bottom looking like a pine bower - a sway between each fender.

We had chosen Raroia because it was closer, reportedly had an easier pass to negotiate, had a small town, a remote anchorage and where the Kontiki had landed/wrecked.  We neared Raroia in the middle of the night, requiring that we slow the boat down to enter in daylight.  As we got to the pass shortly after sunrise, another boat was just going through and we could see two more approaching.  Time to go.  We entered to find rather large standing waves on our starboard side and big reefs on both sides.  Peter revved up and, with a few exclamations by yours truly, we powered through the current which Peter shrugged off as "no big deal".

Once in the lagoon, we carefully picked our way to the more remote east anchorage - remote in the sense that there was no habitation but there were at least half a dozen boats.  We could both easily see the bommies, the satellite images clearly and accurately showed them, even the deeper, smaller ones could be zoomed in on.  Amazing technology.  Even a few short years ago, eyeballs would have been the only way through.

We spent a few days exploring by foot and by dinghy, including a night alone at the Kontiki anchorage.  

All the best shells were taken by hermit crabs.  This one was outgrowing his home.  He/she was attempting to hide.

There must have been a reproductive bonanza of sea cucumbers in this sheltered part of a channel between  motus.  Just lolling about on the bottom doing what?

A wild palm forest with coconuts galore sprouting new growth.

Then on to a town of about 150 people where we met up with two other boats whose crews we had only met through the Mex to FP WhatsApp group.  They were our "friends".  This happens all the time - we know people by boat name and that is enough to get together and socialize.  We visited a black pearl farm, a cooperative farm garden, and had dinner at a local woman's home who cooks a traditional meal for cruisers on demand.  All more fun in the company of others.

A woman selling black pearls at the town dock.

The pearl farm.  The owner didn't allow further pictures - afraid that we would steal his secrets, I guess, and start a farm of our own? - but he did give a limited tour, allowing us to see how the oyster was seeded.  We were not permitted to see a pearl harvested, nor would he answer any questions about how it was done.  He did, however, ask what we had to trade for coconuts.  We agreed to bring a couple of giant fishing lures to the dock at sunset and, indeed, he brought a pick up truck full of coconuts.

Nets and lines hung out to dry to which the oysters clung under buoys along the shoreline.  We always had to be on watch for the (unlit) buoys.  Picture taken before it was vetoed by the boss.

Cute kids swimming among the oysters.

Pearl farm buoys cruisers could buy to use to hang the chain.  We found ours on a leeward shore but these were much more colourful than our sun bleached ones.

This town had an entrepreneurial cooperative farm.  A boat arrived only once a month with supplies so this farm was a real bonus to the locals and to cruisers.  The only "store" in town had meagre supplies on two or three shelves - mainly chips and sweets.  This farm was a godsend.  The bok choy was huge.  Of course, you could only buy what was in season - bok choy, zucchini, cantaloupe, a few tomatoes, a papaya and a few beans.

A cantaloupe was a special treat.

Main Street, Raroia.  Everyone waved and smiled.  We felt very welcome.

Next stop Makemo, another atoll a night sail away.  We went directly to a stunning anchorage at the end of the motus, looking out over the reef and into open ocean.  A walk through coconut plantations to the ocean side took us along sandy beaches with calm ponds of glorious blue water backed by pounding surf on the reef.  

Far east anchorage, away from it all, in Makemo.  Surf pounding on the reef with beautiful blue water in the calm lagoon.  A haven and, oh, so beautiful.

On shore on a couple of the larger motus, were coconut plantations.  A bit scary walking underneath so coconuts.  During school holidays, families come out to harvest the copra and stay in cabins such as this.  Bare necessities.

Then on to town, this one a few hundred with a couple of stores, a pizza counter, a couple of hardware stores and a very large Catholic Church beside a smaller Mormon church - the same combo in every village we have been to.  In both towns, everyone was very friendly, waving and smiling as they went by in car/truck, on bike or sometimes even on foot.  We are usually the only walkers.  

The town harbour on Makemo, population approximately 300.  Several stores,  each offering slightly different items.  One had eggs, another had fresh bread, one had cucumber.  The rule is that when you see something you think you might like, you buy it immediately because they probably won't have it tomorrow.  Happened with oranges.

A larger channel between motus in town, separating one neighbourhood from the other quite different hood.  School, college, sports area on one side, downtown on the other (three stores, harbour, ATM, post office and churches)

A final stop at the westernmost pass for a couple of days to shelter from a strong southern wind.  Walks one way on the motus and then the other way on the motus, wading through channels kept us a bit busy but mostly a very chill few days on the boat.

Then we headed to Fakarava, the Tuamotu most developed for tourism with sensational diving and snorkeling.  Unfortunately, after a night sail, there was a major blow and as we entered the north pass, planning to anchor by town, most boats were leaving.  We could have motored upwind the length of the lagoon (large) but decided to forego the dive at the Shark Wall and head directly to Moorea.  We were already feeling time rushing toward our visit to Canada and then through the Society Islands on our return.  Onward!

The Tikis

We can't leave The Marquesas without referring to the tikis, the carved stone figures familiar to us through the art of Paul Gauguin.  Some believe that Tiki was the first human or the god who created the Marquesan islands.  Tiki now refers to the particular type of statue unique to the Marquesas.  And they are abundant, whether on archeological sites, lining the harbour in Nuku Hiva, or in parks, street corners, public administrative buildings, markets etc. etc.  Some are new reproductions but many are original.  

Cruisers are warned before coming that French Polynesians are very conservative.  Before arriving, we read that women should cover their knees and shoulders.  Indeed in the Marquesas, most of the local women wore long skirts with blouses or dresses.  In the Societies, any garb seemed acceptable although the older women still wore long, colourful skirts or dresses often with a wreath of flowers on their heads.  Going topless and nudity are definitely taboo, even on the deck of your own anchored boat.   It is considered to be disrespectful of the local people.  It is ironic, then, that many of the tikis, both modern reproductions and ancient, are anatomically explicit.  Like this one whose rock hard penis has had a good rub from passers by.

Or this giant, modern tiki that sits proudly on a specially developed hill over-looking the harbour on Nuku Hiva.  A tattooed warrior and...

very pregnant woman into whose naval women can put a message about their own fertility

She comes complete with labia, vagina and clitoris. 

To orient us to the islands, we took a private tour with a local man, during our first days in Nuku Hiva.  He was a proud Marquesan who introduced us to historical Polynesian culture and to current practices.  He and most of the men and women (and many of the cruisers who arrive in the Marquesans) were decorated with tattoos that tell a story in Polynesian symbolism.  We had many friends who spent hours getting their tat each with their own story of choice.  Very cool but not our thing.

This guy was in a site that was completely undeveloped.  All the tikis were aged and mossy.  Delightful!

The archeological sites, or me'ae, are high in the forested hills, not along the coast which held greater risk of tsunamis, invaders and landslides.  Some of the sites are well-developed for historical tourism, others seem lost in the woods. 

The raised platform of huge rocks moved and placed solely with human strength was the site of some less savoury activities.

Ink wells for tattoos dotted the platform.

Women who had more than one sexual partner, were placed in the pit that I stand in front of and sacrificed.  Cannibalism also took place until the last century.

Ancient and enormous banyan trees were planted beside the sites to house the bones of the dead.  The building in the background may have been a dwelling or several on the boundary of a field would act as bleachers from which to watch the festivities.  

Festivities - games, dances - took place in the central field surrounded by viewing shelters for the crowd.  Since the late 20th century, Polynesians have embraced their ancient cultural practices.  The fields of these sacred sites are again used for celebrations.

Our guide took us to the obstetric ward where women went to give birth.  This statue of a mother holding her dead infant is incredibly reminiscent of the pieta.

According to the guide this is the delivery bed.  Yikes - no comfort there.

The views were stunning!

Milly is one of those tiny dots in the harbour down there.

The Marquesas in Pics

Because of our need for speed with our change of plans, we scooted around the Marquesas.  Even though we didn't stay long we felt we had a good sampling of the Marquesa Archipelago, touching down on five of the six inhabited islands.  We could have hiked a lot more and taken in more island culture but we were on the move.

Sailing from island to island is no easy feat.  With an eastern set to the wind, each island apart from Ua Pou is upwind from Nuku Hiva and from each other.  We had to wait for a weather window with as much north in the wind direction as possible.  The usual trades are east to southeast.  Cruisers with a destination in mind and a timeline always need to grab the weather window when it occurs which means they may leave before they want to or have a much prolonged stay.

Limited time meant we were forced to pick and choose where we would visit.  Ua Pou had been recommended by a friend and Fatu Hiva was the most talked about destination in the Marquesas.  Of course, Fatu Hiva was the most difficult to get to because of wind direction.  It meant a couple of three day hops touching down on islands in between: Ua Huka, Hiva Oa and Tahuata, all of which tantalized to explore.  

If I had to choose a favourite Marquesan island, it would have to be Ua Pou.  As soon as we the island came into view, we were awestruck by the piton bouquet.  The tallest was rarely out of the clouds but the view from the anchorage was still breathtaking.

A hike from the anchorage, through a tiny town with sound of beautiful song and drums coming from the picturesque church to a quintessential waterfall and a quick freshwater dip.  Pretty darn nice!

Obvious sedimentary soft rock carved by the sea, topped by a dripping, petrified flow of a different colour.  We often wish we had more geological smarts.  The topography of the Marquesas and the rest of French Polynesia made this a daily desire.

The runway on Ua Pou!  Uphill to stop, downhill to pick up speed before hitting the waves?

New views of the pitons from the harbour of the main town of Ua Pou.  We climbed up to the base of one but the view is always more dramatic from the sea.

Truck stops are popular in smaller towns.  Restaurants and cafes are open from lunch (noon to about 2pm) and dinner (6:30 at the earliest).  Truck stops only close for a couple of hours in the afternoon and, so, we frequented them more regularly.  This one served North American fare - burgers etc.  Crepes and pizzas are often the specialty of others.  Here, we had the one and only slice of tomato that I ate in French Polynesia.  When I asked where the chef got it, she couldn't tell me - her secret store I guess.

In each of the harbours that we went to, there were at least a handful of paddlers.  More often there were clubs with coach boats, multiple canoes: single-handed to eight people, all women, all men and kids.  The canoes were very sleek with outriggers.  These two were waiting for breaking waves to surf but most did laps of the harbour until twilight.  It was a serious business, training for ocean racing from island to island.  A huge and important part of the FP culture.

Milly in the main town harbour at Ua Puo.  Wide angle.  Tiny town with magnificent backdrop.

Never get tired of those pitons.  They are amazing!

If anyone who doesn't have access to a private boat wants to visit the Marquesas, this is probably the best way.  It's a cargo/passenger ship.  It stops at each inhabited island on a two week or one month schedule.  Passengers go ashore while the cargo is unloaded, usually taking a full day.  The arrival of the ship is a big deal for the islanders, too.  We happened to be at Tahuata when the ship came in.  The road to the harbour was lined with locals selling trinkets and fresh fruit to the passengers or waiting for a delivery of a fridge, motorcycle, clothes etc.  The grocery stores were closed for the day while the owners collected their orders and restocked the shelves.  Although used to buying provisions in quantity when we find something we want, we were careful not to do so in the Marquesas and the Tuamotus.  To ensure that locals get what they need, cruising etiquette is to limit themselves to one or two of an item.  The ship comes only once a month.  

Stunning view of a spot-lighted rocky outcrop on the otherwise shadowed Ua Huka.  We spent a night in a  fjord like bay, so narrow with cliffs so high, swell coming in and skies so grey that it was a little spooky.  Even so there were two intrepid paddlers doing laps until the grey light became black.

Another brief overnight stop at Hiva Oa.  At the mouth of the bay, we spotted a religious sculpture, seemingly on a sheer cliff.

How the heck did they create that?  And why there??

On our way into Fatu Hiva, incredible but treacherous looking ridges plunging into the sea.

After anchoring in 36 meters depth with 110 meters of chain - an easy record for us, very deep and very long - we sat back to enjoy the view of the harbour which was bathed in a pre-sunset honeyed glow with the mountains behind still shrouded in cloud.

Seems that the goats liked the view of the ocean.  Not sure how restful their choice of overnight bed will be but I think it's a favourite as we have seen them featured in many cruiser pics.

Inside the tiny, rugged Fatu Hiva harbour.  A local boy was badly bitten by a shark about a year ago here.  We didn't go swimming.

Peter surveying the scene.  No beaches here.

Sweet, well-cared for village.  Population of the entire island is 600 with a (slightly) bigger town down the coast.

We explored on a Sunday.  The small general store was open for an hour or two after church.  We followed the example of the many locals who were shopping by removing our shoes.  

A copra drying station.  Copra is one of the most important industries of the Marquesas where coconut palms grow very well, allowing a year round harvest.  Coconuts are hand harvested by climbing the trees and cutting them down with a machete.  The husk and water is removed and then the flesh or kernel is broken apart and dried.

The drying process is completed within an open hut with a metal roof where the sun beats down.  The kernels are spread out on a raised trestle table. This reduces the moisture content in the kernel from 50% to 6% or less, a process that takes about a week.  During this time the copra is turned to prevent mould growth. Finally, the copra is bagged, shipped to Tahiti and exported to Europe, Asia or North America where it is processed into oil for various uses.  Coconut oil is impossible to find in French Polynesia!

A goat farm - boulders, dirt, palm trees and goats.  A cow counts itself lucky to be tied at the side of the road looking on?  We have seen only a few cows here, most are alone and tied to a tree.  Same with pigs.  Goats rule!

We enjoyed a lovely hike along a scantly-used road and then on a trail through the forest to a waterfall.  The waterfall itself wasn't up to par and the pool was stagnant but the hike was spectacular.  

The weather window was good so after a full day, we decided to head off on a three day passage to the next French Polynesian archipelago. The Tuamotus.  Farewell, spectacular Marquesas.  So honoured to touch your shores.  We have never seen anything like you.