25 March 2020

COVID-19 Update from Milly

Our view from quarantine.  Can't really complain!
Strange times, even in paradise!

We greeted 2020 with anticipation of an awesome year - our daughter's wedding to a wonderful guy, watching our son compete in the Tokyo Olympics and moving home to our cottage for several months, the first time in five years.  But now, like all of yours, everywhere, our plans are in daily flux.  We are currently quarantined on Milly, grateful to be out of the hurricane box, in Carriacou, Grenada.  We're in wait-and-see mode, rolling with the punches.

Here's an update:

On March 6, we weighed anchor in Barbados after a wonderful month, taking friends with us on an overnight sail to Martinique.  Our plan was to cruise the island for a week and then get some boat work done in the well-stocked and serviced La Marin bay.  We had lots of time to complete the work and island hop south to Grenada for a May 18 haul out and flight home to Canada shortly after.
Barbados had proved to be almost like home.  We took friends out on Milly a day sail.  Life was very pleasantly normal.

Tom and Connie were the perfect guests.  Brought loads of provisions and cooked regularly.  Seemed to have a good time doing it, too.  Oblivion to the news was a good thing.  

Attempts to get a SIM in Martinique and, hence, internet were thwarted upon arrival.  Apart from the occasional restaurant wifi, we were largely disconnected for a week.  We did learn that the NBA cancelled their season and later the NHL delayed theirs.  Mild alarm bells.  As we entered the main Fort de France anchorage, we guessed why a cruise liner was anchored way out in the middle of the huge bay with no sign of the usual beetle-like boats carrying passengers back and forth to the harbour.  The ship was there for several days.  They were quarantined with two positive cases on board.  As our friends left for the airport, so to the ship came to shore to allow passengers to return home - by air.
The quarantined cruise liner.  We could make out people using the waterslide so, although a nightmare, they were still having fun.

We reconnected after a few attempts by topping up our Malta/EU card, Martinique being part of France.  A rude awakening after a week's respite - perhaps the fastest moving news week of the year/decade/century?!  (Most often after long passages without connecting, we are surprised with how little has changed in the world - same problems/corruption/politics perhaps in different locations with different people but basically on repeat).

Spain, where Tom was training, was seeing wildly increased number of cases and threatening lockdown.  He had sent a message two days before with his dilemma over what to do.  With hours to spare, he and his Finnish girlfriend decided to get on one of the last flights out of Spain to Finland where they went into self-quarantine at her family's cottage.  Em and Gid were considering working from home.  They were well-stocked and ready for possible self-quarantine.

Over two days, we did a bit of provisioning in crowded stores.  We attempted social distancing but no one else seemed to be following suit.  We learned that islands and Central American countries were beginning to close borders to yachts from particular destinations.  Martinique already had more than ten cases and one death.  Late one night after scanning FB, local news items and feeling the suck of the panic vortex, I decided it was time to get to Grenada, out of the hurricane zone, while we still could.  The next morning, Peter agreed.  All boat work was delayed.

Our only limiting factor was whether or not we could get a SIM in Grenada.  Our destination was the small island of Carriacou.  We had no idea if businesses would be open and a SIM seemed all-important to our emotional well-being enabling connection to family, friends and news.  We decided to make a last effort to get a card in Martinique, reportedly the only one that covers all windward islands.

In we went to La Marin.  Overnight, with the news of the first COVID-19 death, things had changed. Many people were masked and gloved, there were long lines to get into grocery stores.  The first store where we went to get a SIM was closed.  I picked up the pace.  The second was open and the kind man was gloved and patient.  We left having a working SIM for Grenada!  Relief!

Then to clear out.  There was a line, mainly of people clearing into Martinique.  Officialdom was incredibly organized.  All were gloved.  Only the captain was allowed into the office and the staff completed all paperwork.  Peter didn't have to touch a thing.  Quite remarkable.

Back to Milly by noon where we tested the SIM.  All was well, but I learned that the government of Martinique was making a special announcement at three p.m.  We thought it might announce a lockdown.  We left immediately just hours before borders were closed and all crew quarantined to their boats!

After a beautiful, peaceful sail when it was hard to believe that life around the world was in chaos and jeopardy, we arrived in Carriacou.  We went ashore immediately to clear into the country.  It was March 16.  Again, there was a line up.  Upon hearing we were from Martinique we were asked to wait at a separate table for a health "exam".  The nurse took our temperatures and asked several questions.  We were deemed healthy.  As we were sitting waiting for paperwork, a public announcement was broadcast saying that the borders were closed to all crew arriving from countries including anywhere in Europe at midnight!  Again, we squeaked in!  Clearing in was eventually successful.  We made it!  We were so relieved to be out of hurricane zone where we could stay as long as was necessary.

We spent the following few days walking and exploring.  We discovered that attempting to practice social distancing is not easy when others are oblivious.  With care we got some cash and topped up with provisions but we were essentially self-quarantined.  We had spent several weeks here in 2016, doing our scuba diving course, hiking and making firm and fast friends with other cruisers.  It was very pleasant to be back.  Friends planning to go to Bonaire from Barbados, decided to come to Carriacou when Bonaire closed.  We had some company!

Meanwhile, the borders of islands around us were closing or restrictions were greater.  Those boats arriving from Martinique were put in quarantine.  More and more boats were arriving from the north.

On March 20th at midnight, the government of Carriacou quarantined all boats for an unknown length of time.  Crew are not allowed on shore at all and all social gatherings are prohibited.  One diving business has taken on the responsibility of communicating with boats and coordinating provisioning.  We are not allowed to go to an ATM so cash is very limited.  Using credit card involves phone calls and trust.

For several mornings there was an exodus of boats from the anchorage heading to Grenada where crews are still allowed ashore.  It is a bit unnerving to see so many leave.  We, though, have decided that we prefer staying on Milly in a smaller location.  If allowed to, the temptation to go on shore may be too great (and risky).  Grenada has had hundreds of boats arriving and are having trouble managing the logistics.  We have fewer boats by the day and caring locals assisting crew on yachts.  For us, it seems like the better place...for now, anyway. (The only fly in the ointment is that the single case of COVID-19 in Grenada so far, arrived on a flight on March 16.  On this same flight were numerous guests going to a Carriacou wedding that took place that weekend.  Many locals from our little village attended.  If locals begin to get ill, the community spread will be wide.  We will then leave.)

Passenger ferry traffic between Carriacou and Grenada is prohibited.  Only goods are moved between islands.

The international airport is closed to all commercial traffic.  There are four repatriation flights to Canada with special permission from the airport.  Eleven Canadians in Carriacou have seats on the flights but are unable to get to Grenada to take them.  Again, we have decided that we are at less risk of infection on Milly then on a flight, in two airports, eating mass prepared food, in cabs etc that a repatriation flight entails.  I guess the main concern is that health care in Grenada is limited.  And the length of time we may be staying here.

Grenada ports of entry are closed to all pleasure or live-in craft.  Boats that are arriving are being told to leave.  I can't imagine what this would be like!  It is a great concern as hurricane season, beginning June 1, approaches.  There must be hundreds of boats in the Caribbean that are searching for a safe place to go.

Recreation boats must let officials know of any movement between islands.  This is because boats from other island nations have been arriving without clearing in.  The coast guard is trying to keep track of boats that are here legitimately vs those that aren't.

And as of tonight, the citizens are under a curfew for the next 21 days.  My impression, after listening to the P.M.'s address is that people are continuing to socialize, hence, increased restrictions.

For us, we are quite content on Milly if a tad restless.  We are settling into a vague routine.  Life is similar to those of you quarantined at home except that we are surrounded by beautiful, clear blue water and are constantly bobbing.  We are used to provisioning for an extended period and portioning out what we have.  Apart from fresh fruit and veg, we are well-stocked.

We are so very grateful for the internet and connections to family and friends.  Please stay in contact.

And stay well!!

Wednesday, March 25, 2020
Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, Grenada




21 March 2020

Happy Days in Barcelona Pre COVID-19

This 60th birthday celebration took place in vibrant and tourist-packed Barcelona in October, 2019.  It is unbelievable to imagine in March 2020 when I finally post this, that Barcelona's streets are empty and health and life are threatened.  It may seem heartless to write of my wonderful birthday celebration mere months ago, but it is with a gratefulness that we were able to enjoy the tremendous city with those we love and a belief and hope that life will again resume at perhaps a new normal.  Thinking of the people of this vibrant city with hope for a timely recovery!

Just a little happy to have my two children for a visit to celebrate the big 60!
And to explore the city with two dear friends, Anne & Rob!  Here in the Barri Gotic.

It was my 60th birthday!  Friends and children were coming all the way from Toronto to celebrate with me in Barcelona.  What an amazing gift!  I felt very special.  First Anne and Rob came, then Tom,  Em and Gid.  They all overlapped for a day of celebrating - eating at the famed Bodega 1900 where were presented with tapas after tapas at the discretion of the chef after opening with an olive sized ball that exploded in our mouths with oily richness (Strict directions were given that we were not to take a bite of it but pop it right in our mouths).  We tramped around the forever interesting walking city, exploring neighbourhoods, parks, esplanades, architecture punctuated with eating and drinking at restaurants, cafes, bars, bistros and even on Milly.

Mercat de la Boderia, reportedly the best in Spain, was packed mainly with tourists.  There is a certain etiquette to follow when inside.  No touching, no bartering.

You could eat a full meal by going around to the various stalls of eye-candy.  Here were olives galore and kebabs of olive, peppers, anchovy, tomato, etc.  Anne recommended the Gilda - delicious.

The hanging bunches of dried peppers were reminiscent of Turkey.

Just a bit of red meat - ham, actually.  Legs and legs of it.

And some calamari, shrimp, sardines, anchovies in paper cones for snacking.

Urchins and oysters

And eggs of all sizes including ostrich with a reminder not to touch.
Peter's favourite lunch, hence, the photo.  Pinchos, Spanish take on the open face sandwich with every kind of combination of delectables from tortilla and cheese to blood sausage and artichoke.  You pick what you want and they charge you by the number and shape of the toothpicks holding the pieces together.  So simple, so good!

And then there were a few meals on Milly.  Always fun to have additional chefs in the galley.
 It was wonderful!!

From the cable car that goes from the port to Montjuic passing over the marina.  Milly is somewhere in the top left corner. The super yachts were lined up closer to the showers.  We had to walk quite a distance from the cheap - not really - seats.

Milly was happy, too, docked among the super yachts at Port Vell between the foot of the famous, but a bit disappointing and crass, Las Ramblas and the cool beach neighbourhood of La Barceloneta.

Barcelona is a unique city, largely because of the early 20th century artists and architects who made the city their own, the most famous of which is Antoni Gaudi.

Palau Guell, owned by an early patron of Gaudi's, commissioned him to redesign his family home.  Apart from the street level floor it's rather plain from the outside.  The bars on the windows are placed in such a way that the person inside can see out but the plebs on the outside cannot see the elegance within.

And it is amazing complete with an organ, lights, incredible carved wood ceilings, walls and doors.

And then there are the famous and now iconic chimneys.


The front entrance is guarded by a scary looking bird who looks starving enough to peck an intruder's head off!   Among many, many talents, Gaudi was skilled at iron work.

Even the lamp posts in Placa Real in the old city are Gaudi.



Casa Batllo on the Passage de Gracia



Casa Amatller.  Not a Gaudi design but another architect who contributed to the same period.  Amatller made his wealth in chocolate from Cuba.  We opted for a wonderful tour inside instead of joining the hordes in Gaudi's Casa Batllo next door. The tour finished with a bowl of thick hot chocolate with bread chunks to dip.  


Casa Batllo and Casa Amatller



Casa Mila is an apartment block with typical Gaudi droopy, drippy stonework and rounded edges.  The balcony railings were amazing!

More Gaudi at Parc Guell.  Unfinished when Gaudi was killed by a tram, it was designed as a whimsical housing development.  The colourful parts were largely inaccessible for restoration but it still drooped with Gaudi-ness - viaducts, winding staircases, and grottoes.
Gaudi lived in the park before moving to the cathedral.  He chose an austere, deeply religious lifestyle in a beautiful location.

And, of course, the climax of Gaudi style is the still unfinished, one-of-a-kind temple, Sagrada Familia, which tells a story on the inside and out with innumerable statues and gargoyles and - all kinds of stuff.
Gaudi died after being hit by a tram when the cathedral was still largely unfinished.  He had known the building was going to take longer than his lifetime.  Architects are attempting to finish the cathedral in his style and according to his drawings.  It scheduled to be completed in 2026. 

When complete, it's spires will be the tallest structure in Barcelona.  Gaudi stressed that they could not be taller than Montjuic, the city hill - any creation of man should not be taller than God's creation.  

The nativity facade with every conceivable depiction of the main event including what I, the pagan, would call a Christmas tree.

The inside is awe-inspiring.  Light pours through stained glass windows - different colours for different times of the day.  The pillars look like trees - trees of life - reaching for the incredible ceiling and complete with branches.


There is symbolism everywhere.  You could take a full day, week, month, year to study it all.  There is nothing simple about this place but it's fascinating in it's extravagance.

The final event of Christ's life depicted over the other door is somber and austere.  You can feel the difference!

Just happened upon Santa Maria del Mar, a contradiction to the ornate Sagrada Familia, when...

a service was in full swing.  The sounds of a glorious choir filled the incredibly high and spartan nave.  Love serendipity!





Barcelona's Arc de Triomf with a lively, busker-filled park behind.

The art deco "Magic Fountain" at Montjuic.


Two figures.  One beautiful, one....

The Joan Miro museum

A walk through and lunch in the simple and slightly bohemian neighbourhood of Gracia.

In front of the magnificent Palau de la Musica Catalana.  Wish we'd gone inside!  Next time.  
Tom's birthday present to his mum to keep her young and fit.

Takes some lessons and coordination.  He'll have to come back often.

Tom spent an extra day.  We rented city bikes and rode the beach boardwalk.

The W Hotel is a sail on the sea.



It was a very memorable birthday in a great location.  Thanks so much for coming and making my milestone special!!