COVID-19 Update from Milly

Our view from quarantine.  Can't really complain!

Strange times, even in paradise!

We greeted 2020 with anticipation of an awesome year - our daughter's wedding to a wonderful guy, watching our son compete in the Tokyo Olympics and moving home to our cottage for several months, the first time in five years.  But now, like all of yours, everywhere, our plans are in daily flux.  We are currently quarantined on Milly, grateful to be out of the hurricane box, in Carriacou, Grenada.  We're in wait-and-see mode, rolling with the punches.

Here's an update:

On March 6, we weighed anchor in Barbados after a wonderful month, taking friends with us on an overnight sail to Martinique.  Our plan was to cruise the island for a week and then get some boat work done in the well-stocked and serviced La Marin bay.  We had lots of time to complete the work and island hop south to Grenada for a May 18 haul out and flight home to Canada shortly after.

Barbados had proved to be almost like home.  We took friends out on Milly a day sail.  Life was very pleasantly normal.

Tom and Connie were the perfect guests.  Brought loads of provisions and cooked regularly.  Seemed to have a good time doing it, too.  Oblivion to the news was a good thing.  

Attempts to get a SIM in Martinique and, hence, internet were thwarted upon arrival.  Apart from the occasional restaurant wifi, we were largely disconnected for a week.  We did learn that the NBA cancelled their season and later the NHL delayed theirs.  Mild alarm bells.  As we entered the main Fort de France anchorage, we guessed why a cruise liner was anchored way out in the middle of the huge bay with no sign of the usual beetle-like boats carrying passengers back and forth to the harbour.  The ship was there for several days.  They were quarantined with two positive cases on board.  As our friends left for the airport, so to the ship came to shore to allow passengers to return home - by air.

The quarantined cruise liner.  We could make out people using the waterslide so, although a nightmare, they were still having fun.

We reconnected after a few attempts by topping up our Malta/EU card, Martinique being part of France.  A rude awakening after a week's respite - perhaps the fastest moving news week of the year/decade/century?!  (Most often after long passages without connecting, we are surprised with how little has changed in the world - same problems/corruption/politics perhaps in different locations with different people but basically on repeat).

Spain, where Tom was training, was seeing wildly increased number of cases and threatening lockdown.  He had sent a message two days before with his dilemma over what to do.  With hours to spare, he and his Finnish girlfriend decided to get on one of the last flights out of Spain to Finland where they went into self-quarantine at her family's cottage.  Em and Gid were considering working from home.  They were well-stocked and ready for possible self-quarantine.

Over two days, we did a bit of provisioning in crowded stores.  We attempted social distancing but no one else seemed to be following suit.  We learned that islands and Central American countries were beginning to close borders to yachts from particular destinations.  Martinique already had more than ten cases and one death.  Late one night after scanning FB, local news items and feeling the suck of the panic vortex, I decided it was time to get to Grenada, out of the hurricane zone, while we still could.  The next morning, Peter agreed.  All boat work was delayed.

Our only limiting factor was whether or not we could get a SIM in Grenada.  Our destination was the small island of Carriacou.  We had no idea if businesses would be open and a SIM seemed all-important to our emotional well-being enabling connection to family, friends and news.  We decided to make a last effort to get a card in Martinique, reportedly the only one that covers all windward islands.

In we went to La Marin.  Overnight, with the news of the first COVID-19 death, things had changed. Many people were masked and gloved, there were long lines to get into grocery stores.  The first store where we went to get a SIM was closed.  I picked up the pace.  The second was open and the kind man was gloved and patient.  We left having a working SIM for Grenada!  Relief!

Then to clear out.  There was a line, mainly of people clearing into Martinique.  Officialdom was incredibly organized.  All were gloved.  Only the captain was allowed into the office and the staff completed all paperwork.  Peter didn't have to touch a thing.  Quite remarkable.

Back to Milly by noon where we tested the SIM.  All was well, but I learned that the government of Martinique was making a special announcement at three p.m.  We thought it might announce a lockdown.  We left immediately just hours before borders were closed and all crew quarantined to their boats!

After a beautiful, peaceful sail when it was hard to believe that life around the world was in chaos and jeopardy, we arrived in Carriacou.  We went ashore immediately to clear into the country.  It was March 16.  Again, there was a line up.  Upon hearing we were from Martinique we were asked to wait at a separate table for a health "exam".  The nurse took our temperatures and asked several questions.  We were deemed healthy.  As we were sitting waiting for paperwork, a public announcement was broadcast saying that the borders were closed to all crew arriving from countries including anywhere in Europe at midnight!  Again, we squeaked in!  Clearing in was eventually successful.  We made it!  We were so relieved to be out of hurricane zone where we could stay as long as was necessary.

We spent the following few days walking and exploring.  We discovered that attempting to practice social distancing is not easy when others are oblivious.  With care we got some cash and topped up with provisions but we were essentially self-quarantined.  We had spent several weeks here in 2016, doing our scuba diving course, hiking and making firm and fast friends with other cruisers.  It was very pleasant to be back.  Friends planning to go to Bonaire from Barbados, decided to come to Carriacou when Bonaire closed.  We had some company!

Meanwhile, the borders of islands around us were closing or restrictions were greater.  Those boats arriving from Martinique were put in quarantine.  More and more boats were arriving from the north.

On March 20th at midnight, the government of Carriacou quarantined all boats for an unknown length of time.  Crew are not allowed on shore at all and all social gatherings are prohibited.  One diving business has taken on the responsibility of communicating with boats and coordinating provisioning.  We are not allowed to go to an ATM so cash is very limited.  Using credit card involves phone calls and trust.

For several mornings there was an exodus of boats from the anchorage heading to Grenada where crews are still allowed ashore.  It is a bit unnerving to see so many leave.  We, though, have decided that we prefer staying on Milly in a smaller location.  If allowed to, the temptation to go on shore may be too great (and risky).  Grenada has had hundreds of boats arriving and are having trouble managing the logistics.  We have fewer boats by the day and caring locals assisting crew on yachts.  For us, it seems like the better place...for now, anyway. (The only fly in the ointment is that the single case of COVID-19 in Grenada so far, arrived on a flight on March 16.  On this same flight were numerous guests going to a Carriacou wedding that took place that weekend.  Many locals from our little village attended.  If locals begin to get ill, the community spread will be wide.  We will then leave.)

Passenger ferry traffic between Carriacou and Grenada is prohibited.  Only goods are moved between islands.

The international airport is closed to all commercial traffic.  There are four repatriation flights to Canada with special permission from the airport.  Eleven Canadians in Carriacou have seats on the flights but are unable to get to Grenada to take them.  Again, we have decided that we are at less risk of infection on Milly then on a flight, in two airports, eating mass prepared food, in cabs etc that a repatriation flight entails.  I guess the main concern is that health care in Grenada is limited.  And the length of time we may be staying here.

Grenada ports of entry are closed to all pleasure or live-in craft.  Boats that are arriving are being told to leave.  I can't imagine what this would be like!  It is a great concern as hurricane season, beginning June 1, approaches.  There must be hundreds of boats in the Caribbean that are searching for a safe place to go.

Recreation boats must let officials know of any movement between islands.  This is because boats from other island nations have been arriving without clearing in.  The coast guard is trying to keep track of boats that are here legitimately vs those that aren't.

And as of tonight, the citizens are under a curfew for the next 21 days.  My impression, after listening to the P.M.'s address is that people are continuing to socialize, hence, increased restrictions.

For us, we are quite content on Milly if a tad restless.  We are settling into a vague routine.  Life is similar to those of you quarantined at home except that we are surrounded by beautiful, clear blue water and are constantly bobbing.  We are used to provisioning for an extended period and portioning out what we have.  Apart from fresh fruit and veg, we are well-stocked.

We are so very grateful for the internet and connections to family and friends.  Please stay in contact.

And stay well!!

Wednesday, March 25, 2020
Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, Grenada