The Marquesas in Pics

Because of our need for speed with our change of plans, we scooted around the Marquesas.  Even though we didn't stay long we felt we had a good sampling of the Marquesa Archipelago, touching down on five of the six inhabited islands.  We could have hiked a lot more and taken in more island culture but we were on the move.

Sailing from island to island is no easy feat.  With an eastern set to the wind, each island apart from Ua Pou is upwind from Nuku Hiva and from each other.  We had to wait for a weather window with as much north in the wind direction as possible.  The usual trades are east to southeast.  Cruisers with a destination in mind and a timeline always need to grab the weather window when it occurs which means they may leave before they want to or have a much prolonged stay.

Limited time meant we were forced to pick and choose where we would visit.  Ua Pou had been recommended by a friend and Fatu Hiva was the most talked about destination in the Marquesas.  Of course, Fatu Hiva was the most difficult to get to because of wind direction.  It meant a couple of three day hops touching down on islands in between: Ua Huka, Hiva Oa and Tahuata, all of which tantalized to explore.  

If I had to choose a favourite Marquesan island, it would have to be Ua Pou.  As soon as we the island came into view, we were awestruck by the piton bouquet.  The tallest was rarely out of the clouds but the view from the anchorage was still breathtaking.

A hike from the anchorage, through a tiny town with sound of beautiful song and drums coming from the picturesque church to a quintessential waterfall and a quick freshwater dip.  Pretty darn nice!

Obvious sedimentary soft rock carved by the sea, topped by a dripping, petrified flow of a different colour.  We often wish we had more geological smarts.  The topography of the Marquesas and the rest of French Polynesia made this a daily desire.

The runway on Ua Pou!  Uphill to stop, downhill to pick up speed before hitting the waves?

New views of the pitons from the harbour of the main town of Ua Pou.  We climbed up to the base of one but the view is always more dramatic from the sea.

Truck stops are popular in smaller towns.  Restaurants and cafes are open from lunch (noon to about 2pm) and dinner (6:30 at the earliest).  Truck stops only close for a couple of hours in the afternoon and, so, we frequented them more regularly.  This one served North American fare - burgers etc.  Crepes and pizzas are often the specialty of others.  Here, we had the one and only slice of tomato that I ate in French Polynesia.  When I asked where the chef got it, she couldn't tell me - her secret store I guess.

In each of the harbours that we went to, there were at least a handful of paddlers.  More often there were clubs with coach boats, multiple canoes: single-handed to eight people, all women, all men and kids.  The canoes were very sleek with outriggers.  These two were waiting for breaking waves to surf but most did laps of the harbour until twilight.  It was a serious business, training for ocean racing from island to island.  A huge and important part of the FP culture.

Milly in the main town harbour at Ua Puo.  Wide angle.  Tiny town with magnificent backdrop.

Never get tired of those pitons.  They are amazing!

If anyone who doesn't have access to a private boat wants to visit the Marquesas, this is probably the best way.  It's a cargo/passenger ship.  It stops at each inhabited island on a two week or one month schedule.  Passengers go ashore while the cargo is unloaded, usually taking a full day.  The arrival of the ship is a big deal for the islanders, too.  We happened to be at Tahuata when the ship came in.  The road to the harbour was lined with locals selling trinkets and fresh fruit to the passengers or waiting for a delivery of a fridge, motorcycle, clothes etc.  The grocery stores were closed for the day while the owners collected their orders and restocked the shelves.  Although used to buying provisions in quantity when we find something we want, we were careful not to do so in the Marquesas and the Tuamotus.  To ensure that locals get what they need, cruising etiquette is to limit themselves to one or two of an item.  The ship comes only once a month.  

Stunning view of a spot-lighted rocky outcrop on the otherwise shadowed Ua Huka.  We spent a night in a  fjord like bay, so narrow with cliffs so high, swell coming in and skies so grey that it was a little spooky.  Even so there were two intrepid paddlers doing laps until the grey light became black.

Another brief overnight stop at Hiva Oa.  At the mouth of the bay, we spotted a religious sculpture, seemingly on a sheer cliff.

How the heck did they create that?  And why there??

On our way into Fatu Hiva, incredible but treacherous looking ridges plunging into the sea.

After anchoring in 36 meters depth with 110 meters of chain - an easy record for us, very deep and very long - we sat back to enjoy the view of the harbour which was bathed in a pre-sunset honeyed glow with the mountains behind still shrouded in cloud.

Seems that the goats liked the view of the ocean.  Not sure how restful their choice of overnight bed will be but I think it's a favourite as we have seen them featured in many cruiser pics.

Inside the tiny, rugged Fatu Hiva harbour.  A local boy was badly bitten by a shark about a year ago here.  We didn't go swimming.

Peter surveying the scene.  No beaches here.

Sweet, well-cared for village.  Population of the entire island is 600 with a (slightly) bigger town down the coast.

We explored on a Sunday.  The small general store was open for an hour or two after church.  We followed the example of the many locals who were shopping by removing our shoes.  

A copra drying station.  Copra is one of the most important industries of the Marquesas where coconut palms grow very well, allowing a year round harvest.  Coconuts are hand harvested by climbing the trees and cutting them down with a machete.  The husk and water is removed and then the flesh or kernel is broken apart and dried.

The drying process is completed within an open hut with a metal roof where the sun beats down.  The kernels are spread out on a raised trestle table. This reduces the moisture content in the kernel from 50% to 6% or less, a process that takes about a week.  During this time the copra is turned to prevent mould growth. Finally, the copra is bagged, shipped to Tahiti and exported to Europe, Asia or North America where it is processed into oil for various uses.  Coconut oil is impossible to find in French Polynesia!

A goat farm - boulders, dirt, palm trees and goats.  A cow counts itself lucky to be tied at the side of the road looking on?  We have seen only a few cows here, most are alone and tied to a tree.  Same with pigs.  Goats rule!

We enjoyed a lovely hike along a scantly-used road and then on a trail through the forest to a waterfall.  The waterfall itself wasn't up to par and the pool was stagnant but the hike was spectacular.  

The weather window was good so after a full day, we decided to head off on a three day passage to the next French Polynesian archipelago. The Tuamotus.  Farewell, spectacular Marquesas.  So honoured to touch your shores.  We have never seen anything like you.