The Tikis

We can't leave The Marquesas without referring to the tikis, the carved stone figures familiar to us through the art of Paul Gauguin.  Some believe that Tiki was the first human or the god who created the Marquesan islands.  Tiki now refers to the particular type of statue unique to the Marquesas.  And they are abundant, whether on archeological sites, lining the harbour in Nuku Hiva, or in parks, street corners, public administrative buildings, markets etc. etc.  Some are new reproductions but many are original.  

Cruisers are warned before coming that French Polynesians are very conservative.  Before arriving, we read that women should cover their knees and shoulders.  Indeed in the Marquesas, most of the local women wore long skirts with blouses or dresses.  In the Societies, any garb seemed acceptable although the older women still wore long, colourful skirts or dresses often with a wreath of flowers on their heads.  Going topless and nudity are definitely taboo, even on the deck of your own anchored boat.   It is considered to be disrespectful of the local people.  It is ironic, then, that many of the tikis, both modern reproductions and ancient, are anatomically explicit.  Like this one whose rock hard penis has had a good rub from passers by.

Or this giant, modern tiki that sits proudly on a specially developed hill over-looking the harbour on Nuku Hiva.  A tattooed warrior and...

very pregnant woman into whose naval women can put a message about their own fertility

She comes complete with labia, vagina and clitoris. 

To orient us to the islands, we took a private tour with a local man, during our first days in Nuku Hiva.  He was a proud Marquesan who introduced us to historical Polynesian culture and to current practices.  He and most of the men and women (and many of the cruisers who arrive in the Marquesans) were decorated with tattoos that tell a story in Polynesian symbolism.  We had many friends who spent hours getting their tat each with their own story of choice.  Very cool but not our thing.

This guy was in a site that was completely undeveloped.  All the tikis were aged and mossy.  Delightful!

The archeological sites, or me'ae, are high in the forested hills, not along the coast which held greater risk of tsunamis, invaders and landslides.  Some of the sites are well-developed for historical tourism, others seem lost in the woods. 

The raised platform of huge rocks moved and placed solely with human strength was the site of some less savoury activities.

Ink wells for tattoos dotted the platform.

Women who had more than one sexual partner, were placed in the pit that I stand in front of and sacrificed.  Cannibalism also took place until the last century.

Ancient and enormous banyan trees were planted beside the sites to house the bones of the dead.  The building in the background may have been a dwelling or several on the boundary of a field would act as bleachers from which to watch the festivities.  

Festivities - games, dances - took place in the central field surrounded by viewing shelters for the crowd.  Since the late 20th century, Polynesians have embraced their ancient cultural practices.  The fields of these sacred sites are again used for celebrations.

Our guide took us to the obstetric ward where women went to give birth.  This statue of a mother holding her dead infant is incredibly reminiscent of the pieta.

According to the guide this is the delivery bed.  Yikes - no comfort there.

The views were stunning!

Milly is one of those tiny dots in the harbour down there.

The Marquesas in Pics

Because of our need for speed with our change of plans, we scooted around the Marquesas.  Even though we didn't stay long we felt we had a good sampling of the Marquesa Archipelago, touching down on five of the six inhabited islands.  We could have hiked a lot more and taken in more island culture but we were on the move.

Sailing from island to island is no easy feat.  With an eastern set to the wind, each island apart from Ua Pou is upwind from Nuku Hiva and from each other.  We had to wait for a weather window with as much north in the wind direction as possible.  The usual trades are east to southeast.  Cruisers with a destination in mind and a timeline always need to grab the weather window when it occurs which means they may leave before they want to or have a much prolonged stay.

Limited time meant we were forced to pick and choose where we would visit.  Ua Pou had been recommended by a friend and Fatu Hiva was the most talked about destination in the Marquesas.  Of course, Fatu Hiva was the most difficult to get to because of wind direction.  It meant a couple of three day hops touching down on islands in between: Ua Huka, Hiva Oa and Tahuata, all of which tantalized to explore.  

If I had to choose a favourite Marquesan island, it would have to be Ua Pou.  As soon as we the island came into view, we were awestruck by the piton bouquet.  The tallest was rarely out of the clouds but the view from the anchorage was still breathtaking.

A hike from the anchorage, through a tiny town with sound of beautiful song and drums coming from the picturesque church to a quintessential waterfall and a quick freshwater dip.  Pretty darn nice!

Obvious sedimentary soft rock carved by the sea, topped by a dripping, petrified flow of a different colour.  We often wish we had more geological smarts.  The topography of the Marquesas and the rest of French Polynesia made this a daily desire.

The runway on Ua Pou!  Uphill to stop, downhill to pick up speed before hitting the waves?

New views of the pitons from the harbour of the main town of Ua Pou.  We climbed up to the base of one but the view is always more dramatic from the sea.

Truck stops are popular in smaller towns.  Restaurants and cafes are open from lunch (noon to about 2pm) and dinner (6:30 at the earliest).  Truck stops only close for a couple of hours in the afternoon and, so, we frequented them more regularly.  This one served North American fare - burgers etc.  Crepes and pizzas are often the specialty of others.  Here, we had the one and only slice of tomato that I ate in French Polynesia.  When I asked where the chef got it, she couldn't tell me - her secret store I guess.

In each of the harbours that we went to, there were at least a handful of paddlers.  More often there were clubs with coach boats, multiple canoes: single-handed to eight people, all women, all men and kids.  The canoes were very sleek with outriggers.  These two were waiting for breaking waves to surf but most did laps of the harbour until twilight.  It was a serious business, training for ocean racing from island to island.  A huge and important part of the FP culture.

Milly in the main town harbour at Ua Puo.  Wide angle.  Tiny town with magnificent backdrop.

Never get tired of those pitons.  They are amazing!

If anyone who doesn't have access to a private boat wants to visit the Marquesas, this is probably the best way.  It's a cargo/passenger ship.  It stops at each inhabited island on a two week or one month schedule.  Passengers go ashore while the cargo is unloaded, usually taking a full day.  The arrival of the ship is a big deal for the islanders, too.  We happened to be at Tahuata when the ship came in.  The road to the harbour was lined with locals selling trinkets and fresh fruit to the passengers or waiting for a delivery of a fridge, motorcycle, clothes etc.  The grocery stores were closed for the day while the owners collected their orders and restocked the shelves.  Although used to buying provisions in quantity when we find something we want, we were careful not to do so in the Marquesas and the Tuamotus.  To ensure that locals get what they need, cruising etiquette is to limit themselves to one or two of an item.  The ship comes only once a month.  

Stunning view of a spot-lighted rocky outcrop on the otherwise shadowed Ua Huka.  We spent a night in a  fjord like bay, so narrow with cliffs so high, swell coming in and skies so grey that it was a little spooky.  Even so there were two intrepid paddlers doing laps until the grey light became black.

Another brief overnight stop at Hiva Oa.  At the mouth of the bay, we spotted a religious sculpture, seemingly on a sheer cliff.

How the heck did they create that?  And why there??

On our way into Fatu Hiva, incredible but treacherous looking ridges plunging into the sea.

After anchoring in 36 meters depth with 110 meters of chain - an easy record for us, very deep and very long - we sat back to enjoy the view of the harbour which was bathed in a pre-sunset honeyed glow with the mountains behind still shrouded in cloud.

Seems that the goats liked the view of the ocean.  Not sure how restful their choice of overnight bed will be but I think it's a favourite as we have seen them featured in many cruiser pics.

Inside the tiny, rugged Fatu Hiva harbour.  A local boy was badly bitten by a shark about a year ago here.  We didn't go swimming.

Peter surveying the scene.  No beaches here.

Sweet, well-cared for village.  Population of the entire island is 600 with a (slightly) bigger town down the coast.

We explored on a Sunday.  The small general store was open for an hour or two after church.  We followed the example of the many locals who were shopping by removing our shoes.  

A copra drying station.  Copra is one of the most important industries of the Marquesas where coconut palms grow very well, allowing a year round harvest.  Coconuts are hand harvested by climbing the trees and cutting them down with a machete.  The husk and water is removed and then the flesh or kernel is broken apart and dried.

The drying process is completed within an open hut with a metal roof where the sun beats down.  The kernels are spread out on a raised trestle table. This reduces the moisture content in the kernel from 50% to 6% or less, a process that takes about a week.  During this time the copra is turned to prevent mould growth. Finally, the copra is bagged, shipped to Tahiti and exported to Europe, Asia or North America where it is processed into oil for various uses.  Coconut oil is impossible to find in French Polynesia!

A goat farm - boulders, dirt, palm trees and goats.  A cow counts itself lucky to be tied at the side of the road looking on?  We have seen only a few cows here, most are alone and tied to a tree.  Same with pigs.  Goats rule!

We enjoyed a lovely hike along a scantly-used road and then on a trail through the forest to a waterfall.  The waterfall itself wasn't up to par and the pool was stagnant but the hike was spectacular.  

The weather window was good so after a full day, we decided to head off on a three day passage to the next French Polynesian archipelago. The Tuamotus.  Farewell, spectacular Marquesas.  So honoured to touch your shores.  We have never seen anything like you.