Magnificent Martinique

Our sunset view rarely has a mountain in it on the leeward shores of the Lesser Antilles but these framed the sun perfectly.

There is something about the French islands that make them unique.  Perhaps it is the $3 wine or French cheeses or the jarred pate that actually tastes wonderful or the people wandering the streets with baguettes under their arms.  Or maybe it’s the substantial infrastructure - solid pavement with shoulders.  Or maybe the adventure of speaking French while praying you will understand the quick response.  Or maybe the dwellings which definitely have a European flavour.  Whatever it is we enjoyed our time in Martinique.  It is one of the islands we hope to return to.  We’d like to spend a month exploring the less visited Atlantic coast.

Hiking was just not enough.  We had to give aquafit a try.

We picked up our/my dear friends, Lee and Paula - between them I have enjoyed almost one hundred years of friendship, lucky me - at St Anne, a sleep, touristy but pleasant town in the southern part of the island.  A huge bay is packed with boats.  There we introduced Paula to Milly.  This was Lee’s third visit - she is a frequent sailor and always welcome.  We love hosting and sharing our adventures.  Our pace picks up and we feel like we are on holiday.  I always have to remind myself that for our guests, a stay on Milly and a sample of our daily life is an adventure.  By this time for us, our daily adventures are our lives - always wonderful and stimulating but our daily lifestyle.  Exploring, keeping the boat shipshape and our cupboards stocked and sailing from port to port is what we do every day.  Never mundane but becoming far more “usual” than it was a year ago.

Gorgeous Saline Beach after a coastal hike.

The much more wild Atlantic coast...

with the petrified savannah on it's shore. 

One-clawed - at least, one enormous claw with perhaps a teeny weeny second and defunct claw - crabs in the mangroves.

In St Anne we hiked along the coast on a path, at first hard to find, that took us to secluded beautiful beaches lined with coconut palms, mangrove swamps where locals were fishing for single-clawed crabs and a petrified savannah in the scorching and energy-withering heat.  We also climbed yet another hill topped by a shrine that is a pilgrimage for thousands once a year.  The twelve stations of the cross marked each hairpin turn.

One of the stations of the cross.  Had to decipher the message in French.

A relic from days gone by.

We enjoyed a few days in the less touristy St Pierre, a once thriving “Paris of the Caribbean” that was obliterated by an eruption of Mt Pelee in 1902.  A museum includes stunning before and after shots.  I am hoping that Montserrat will be able to recover to the extend that St Pierre, which seems to now have a decent economy, has managed.

St Pierre shop on the waterfront.  Many of the buildings were built on the foundations remaining after the Mt Pelee eruption.

Canal de Beauregarde is an aquaduct of several km built by slaves in 1760's.  A masterpiece of engineering.

Lovely green moss and ferns often obscured our path.

The 18 inch wall demanded single file marching.  Precipitous drops on one side combined with the rocking sensation remaining from Milly (called mal de debarquement) made the balance necessary for safety particularly challenging for Lee and Paula.

Peter has a sentimental interest in crabs from his childhood in Norway.  They peak out from everywhere even many feet above sea level.  Who knew?

An extraordinary hike.  The incline was gradual and downhill so easy compared to our usual.  Just balance required and vertigo a hazard.

The water was required for the rum distilleries in the valley.

The leader.  

We hiked down the Canal de Beauregarde - a beautiful and unique hike - and climbed Mt Pelee in the rain - Peter and I almost had a mutiny on our hands. 

The beginning of our Mt Pelee climb started after an ascent by car which was a challenge for our rental car.  The stairs made for a very civilized start which quickly turned into a steep boulder path.

Oops!  At the top we learned that the path we had just ascended was closed!  Oh well, we had to get down so we ignored the red lettering saying to ourselves that we didn't understand French.  Note the cloud which contained rain.  We were wet and cold - hard to believe!

So much against my will - I hate leaving a trail half finished and we had a crater loop we opted not to take - we descended.  This was the easy part.

Gradually views appeared of magnificent ravines and steep drops.  Greenery all around but, unlike other climbs when views are often obscured by tall trees, vines etc., the views were unobstructed, long and spectacular.

The mist and cloud gradually broke up.  St Pierre was in the distance and showed us just how far this mountain had thrown it's rock and ash.

Looking up, the peak was clear!  I could've gone back up to do the loop but we'd come to far down for my legs to give permission...and I would've gone by myself.

Mt Pelee covered in cloud with St Pierre

The plantation house of a rum distillery

St Pierre from Milly

And then back to Fort de France to drop off Lee and Paula.  Unfortunately, this coincided with Ascension Day - the city was shut down.  Taxis, buses, all modes of transport were nonexistent.  Luckily, the bartender who was working at 8:00 a.m. at a fancy hotel was able to call a cab so that Lee and Paula could make their plane.

A little spice shopping in St Pierre.  Such a nice thing to enjoy with my friends.

Pumpkin, a favourite ingredient in stews.

Fort de France anchorage.  The fort is now a French navy base.

The library.  As grand inside as outside.  Built by Eiffel.  He sure liked his curly cues.  Peter and I have found that town libraries are often in beautiful historical buildings and often worth a visit.

Another hike.  We couldn't get to the Atlantic coast as buses were unreliable the day after Ascension Day so we headed up into the hills behind Fort de France in a city bus - they have to run by law even on holidays.  

Fort de France.  A busy place.  The cathedral steeple is lacey, not solid.  Very cool.

Peter and I stayed on for a few days to hike and check out another anchorage.  See Serendipity in Martinique....coming soon.  Thanks for joining us, Paula and Lee!