s/v Milly: The Family in Belize

Milly looking pretty Half Moon Caye at Lighthouse Reef. We were one of two boats at this fabulous atoll.

So happy to have our kids with us!

Em, at home on the bow.

Peter and Tom talking sailing.

The great highlight of our Belizean tour was, of course, a visit from Em and Tom, our children, and Gid, Em’s boyfriend. This is no easy feat. We are spread out all over the globe. This year, Em came from Brooklyn, Tom from Valencia, Spain and Gid from Toronto. We are very grateful that they make the effort to travel many miles and coordinate their time so we can all be together. Since becoming irresponsible vagabonds, the family time has become more important and very special. It is always wonderful to share our adventures with them and we want them to love coming to visit so it will occur often. In the last three years, while we have been with Milly, they have met us in Buenos Aires, Barbados and, in 2016, Belize. Each location has been unique and we’ve had great times but Belize was our first real cruising experience and it was very full.

Em and Tom joined us first and Gid came a few days later. We sailed each day, a new anchorage each night with E&T.

Exploring beautiful unspoilt beaches at Half Moon Caye

Half Moon Caye is the nesting sight of thousands of seabirds. A platform at treetop level, gave us an amazing, eye-level view of hundreds of frigate birds, the males attempting to attract females by inflating a huge balloon at the base of their beaks (the red dots in the green).

Tom, pondering the boobies :)

Amazing!

A booby. They nested not more than 6 feet away. Blue beaks and red feet.

Natural beach art.

A guy gave each of us a coconut that he had just cut off a palm. Guzzling!

The water was rough but a pod of dolphins still came to visit at the bow. So thrilled that the kids could have this treat even though they had to hang on tight.

We declined to eat this guy. Barracudas, particularly around coral reefs, sometimes carry ciguatera fish poisoning which can lead to severe illness, even death. A risk not worth taking.

On the way we caught (and released) a toothy baracuda, were entertained by a school of dolphins at the bow, marked 10,000NM on Milly, sailed through rain and high wind, and ran aground three times - in sand, luckily.

Note, second line on far left - 10,000NM on Milly.

While Tom and I were snorkelling at Lighthouse atoll through the submerged walls of coral, we were suddenly startled by a large reef shark coming out from under an overhang toward us and then veering away. We both yelped into our snorkels and Tom quickly took a breather in the dinghy where Peter and Em were keeping watch. Suddenly, I was alone in the water - just me - no shark and no Tom. Tom got back in but the shark didn’t reappear. Em was surrounded by small, we think, lemon sharks in the shallows while peeing - Tom had warned us that sharks are attracted to ammonia - is this true? Timing certainly made it seem so. Em ran to shore mighty quickly and declined to snorkel. I no longer pee while swimming.

Rather an intimidating warning. We had absolutely no intention of feeding a shark unless they were interested in a bite of us.

Our attempts to get to the anchorage at Turnoff Atoll was interrupted by running aground twice. These locals came to our rescue and offered to lead us over the sandbank. With complete faith we followed at a good clip and promptly ran aground a third time. Unfortunately, we were deeply embedded but the local guy dove into the water to look at the keel and direct his buddy on which way to pull our enormous boat with his tiny one. Peter gunned our Volvos and finally we were free. Meanwhile, a pit bull like dog that accompanied the men jumped into the water to play with a couple of dolphins. They hung out together for at least 20 minutes. Unfortunately, we were too busy rescuing the boat to get the full show. The dolphin and dog were obviously enjoying each other's company. The guys said it's impossible to keep the dog in the boat when there were dolphins to play with.

Tom took first me and then Em on a full speed ride in his namesake through a narrow network of mangroves with steep corners, a big smile on his face. A video was attempted but didn’t illustrate the rush.

The "skinny" Belizean waters meant we had to keep close watch for sandbanks and coral heads.

Em doing her thing...

Tom doing his.

And I guess me doing mine - food prep. For the first time we had fresh conch, purchased shelled but prepared no further. We had to clean off the coloured, slimy bits until just pure white flesh was left. Then sautéed in butter and garlic. Delish!

We picked Gid up on Cay Caulker, a small island with a smaller, very laid back town where the only vehicles are bikes and golf carts, the roads sand and young backpackers are the primary travellers, many who come and never leave. And then to Ambergris, where we were treated to a wonderful meal and tour provided gratis at a top end resort on the island. Em has connections!

The only access to Matachica Beach Resort on Ambergris was by boat. Here we are - all dressed up and ready for lunch at what Lonely Planet calls one of the 'swankiest resorts' on the island. "Extravagant, exotic and eclectic...serious about the idea of tropical luxury." All true. An incredible treat just to wander the grounds after our simple living on Milly.

A three course lunch in the outdoor dining room. We had the best table in the house -on the edge of the beach, looking over the water. The Mambo Restaurant is award winning. Our service was superb - Gid was even given a mug he had admired. Thanks, Em!!

On the dock at Matachica there were several private pods where guests could lie in a double couch/bed under a canopy with service - just in case you didn't have the energy to walk to the beachside bar. As part of Em's deal, she had to post a few pictures enjoying the ambience. Not hard to do.

Back at Caye Caulker, Em and Gid explored in kayak...

and Tom on SUP.

Adding a jump off a treetop into the water.

After paddle boarding, kayaking and more snorkelling, they left us on Christmas Day after a traditional Norwegian! Christmas Eve dinner and a bowl of risgrøt for lunch.

Even their lifelong stockings made it to Belize and they are still aboard for Christmas's hereafter.

Belizean pork ribs Norwegian style with potatoes, prunes, sausages, apples made up our Eve dinner.

Merry Christmas!

Another Norwegian tradition - a hot rice porridge served with cinnamon and butter. One almond is hidden in the porridge. Whoever has the almond, gets the marzipan pig. This year Em had chosen our pigs and brought them all the way from NYC - a single pig and a kissing couple. And, appropriately, she got the almond, and won the pig which she shared as is also the tradition.