Hiking North Cyprus

Taken from the peak of St. Hilarion Castle (732m), North Cyprus offers views of a rugged mountain spine, a narrow green coast with rolling hills and a beautiful, blue sea.  A hiker's paradise!

After our chock-a-block road trip in Israel, it was a relief to get to low-key, quiet North Cyprus.  Sadly, this relaxed atmosphere is only for tourists.  Cyprus is another politically tense and complicated country.  Because of it's strategic position in the eastern Mediterranean, it have seen numerous invasions and changes of power.  Most recently, Turkey invaded the country in 1974 in response to a coup d'etat by a Greek party that wanted Cyprus unification with Greece (and years of Turkish Cypriots reportedly feeling ignored and mistreated by the dominant Greek population). The island was divided by the UN-maintained Green Line, one third for Turkish Cypriots and two thirds for Greek Cypriots based on the population ratios at the time. Turkey is the only country that recognizes North Cyprus as distinct.  We could only fly to South Cyprus from Israel and we could only fly to Turkey from North Cyprus.  Crossing to North Cyprus over the island border, passports are not stamped - rumour has it that Greece will refuse entry to anyone who has a North Cyprus stamp.  None of this continued rancour effected our stay which was peaceful and relaxed and full out outdoor wonder.

Our dear friends on dock in Finike who own a house in North Cyprus arranged a driver to take us from the (South) Cyprus airport to our (North Cyprus) AirBNB, - also suggested by our friends - a rental car to arrive first thing the next morning, and a driver to the North Cyprus airport at the end of the week.  They recommended trails, sights, restaurants etc. etc.  All the hard work of research and organization was done.  We felt like spoiled VIPs!

Spring was on it's way.  The wildflowers were bountiful.  A few shots of them first.

Anemones, I think. Maybe iris?  Gorgeous blue, in any case.

These are considered to be a weed.  They grow everywhere in Turkey as well.  The goats and sheep won't eat their tough leaves but they are striking.

Mandrake - a squat mauve bunch of blossoms on a platter of huge, not-so-pretty and usually insect eaten leaves that hugs the ground.  

Teeny, tiny wild orchids.  Very lovely

North Cyprus is a hiker's paradise with less developed coastline than the south part of the island, and craggy, rough mountains within spitting distance.  Many of the mountain roads are one lane wide.  Guard rails are essentially non existent with precipitous drops on the passenger side - that's my side.  Every day was an outdoor adventure!

Within walking distance of our home for the week was Bellapais Abbey founded by Augustine monks who were expelled from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem when Saladin invaded in 1187.  Our knowledge of history is much richer because of all the geopolitical connections.  Quite amazing!

The abbey has a tumultuous history including corrupt practices by the monks.  With the Ottoman invasion it became derelict and only the church remained.  The British used the refectory as a rifle range.

It is now a peaceful tourist attraction with a beautiful view. 

The sweet village of Bellapais, with narrow lanes hugging the steep slopes of the mountains and a stunning view of the abbey and coast. 

Bellapais is also on the tourist map for this rather humdrum house called Bitter Lemons where Lawrence Durrell, one of our current favourite authors, lived from 1953-56.

Three castles sit on the highest peaks of the ridge of Kyrenia mountains.  St. Hilarion, "a picture-book castle for elf kings", formed the template for the fairy-tale castles of King Ludwig in Barvaria and Disney's Magic Kingdom.

Beginning as a monastery and converted to a castle by Byzantines to watch for Arab raids and finally a palace for Lusignan royalty.

An odd tourist attraction and monument.  A Turkish tank fallen off the narrow ridge road during the Turkish invasion.

Another hike, another pretty scene.  Being a Muslim country, the churches in North Cyprus have been allowed to decay but they make striking ruins.

A very orderly single file herd of goats returning home without guidance by dog or shepherd through fields of wildflowers.

One of hundreds of wild donkey at the eastern tip of the island, the 70km long Karpaz Peninsula.  He put a wet smudge on our window looking for food.

Someone was quietly trying to practise their faith in this....

 tiny chapel in the middle of nowhere

Just happened upon an underground tomb on our walk.

Girne is said to be the most attractive town on the island with this round harbour taken from the next door castle ramparts and backed by the mountains.

The Shipwreck Museum's prized possession: a 15m-long Greek merchant ship from 300 BC!  Discovered by a sponge diver in 1965.  The cargo included 400 wine amphorae and thousands of almonds preserved in jars.  Very cool!

Grin Castle guarding the harbour entrance.

Beach and...

... rolling hills for another hike.

And finally, Buffavento Castle.  The second of the three castles (we drove to the third on a very scary road but it was too late to explore) the name means "buffeted by the wind" and indeed it was.  Through a downpour, it appeared hauntingly shrouded in cloud.

We climbed to the top as the cloud gradually cleared.  And what a climb it was!

We loved our hiking on Cyprus.  It's nice to know that friends have a home there. One day we might be invited back!