Brothels, Bistrots and Body Casts at Pompeii

On the 24th of August, 79 A.D., after several days of earthquakes, Vesuvius, thought of as merely as a mountain, erupted.  The plug of solidified lava was ripped off by a huge build up of pressure below.  The explosion projected 20 km into the sky and a shower of lapilli or pumice stones and then volcanic ash settling 70 km radius to the southeast.  Pompeii was buried in a few hours.  The inhabitants were killed by the poisonous gases released by the pumice stones and the city was buried.  Above the forum or the centre of life in Pompeii - Vesuvius always in the background, not looking too menacing today.

After our adventures on Stromboli we headed back to the mainland: Cetraro where we caught up with Sandy and Al on Sandali, good friends after two winters in Tunisia and Turkey as next door neighbours; onward to a small tourist town, Camerota, catering to Italian tourists; Agropoli, a castle town with a maze of narrow lanes perched on a cliff overlooking the harbour and, finally, Salerno, a working city, home to a famous medieval medical school which prospered for over a thousand years.

View from Milly of the old town of Agropoli perched on a cliff.

The Agropoli castle, well kept for events.

Milly at anchor in the small Agropoli harbour with the new town beyond.

The Salerno duomo considered to be the most beautiful medieval church in Italy, is unique in our experience for it's  courtyard bordered by graceful arches inside it's main entrance.  

The cliffs along the coast between Cetraro and Agropoli soared straight from the sea and were dotted with ancient watch towers.  Green slopes were further inland with a few hilltop towns.  Minimal tourist development is apparently for ex-pat Italians returning for summer holidays from their new homes across the seas.

We left Milly safely at anchorage and took the train to Pompeii.  What a day trip!  Full of poignant history with Vesuvius always looming in the background.

These plaster body casts were poignant illustrations of the human tragedy and cost.  Before being buried by ash, these inhabitants were desperately trying to get to the nearby port and safety.  The archeologist poured liquid plaster into the hollows left in the ash where the bodies had decomposed to recreate the human figures where they lay at the moment of their death.  The same technique was used for any material that decomposed, including wood doors, windows, stairs etc.  Hence, reconstruction is more accurate.  

Via Della'Abbondanza could be anywhere - even with sidewalks - and was the main drag.  As a flourishing trading centre, thousands flocked to the town from the surrounding area and stayed in boarding houses along the street attached taverns and fast food establishments where local wine was served.

Pompeii's fast food restaurant, the thermopolium.  Warm meals served from the masonry bowls inlaid in the counter were eaten on the spot.

Election propaganda on the facade of a tavern

The laundry of Stephanus.  The tank was used to wash finer cloth.  The rougher cloth was trodden on by foot in five basins. at the back of the establishment along with a press used to fold the cloth.

The Amphitheatre could seat about 20,000 people to watch the bloody show of gladiators and wild animals.  In summer, a canopy of flax was fitted above the seats to shade the spectators.  We could've used the same - it was hotter than hot in the burning sun.  Next to the stadium was the Palaestra a huge playing field bordered by a colonnade.  The area was reserved for young people as a gymnasium and sports centre.  Youth were organized into teams, the intent of which was to inculcate the Imperial ideology in the minds of the young as decreed by the Emperor.

Standing in the VIP seats of the small theatre or odeion, covered with a roof at the time of the explosion.

Atlas, poor guy, held up a pillar of the roof.

The lupanar or brothel had ten stone beds with stone pillow each in a small room of it's own.

A close up of the comfy bed, reportedly covered with a straw mattress.  The  brothel was managed by a 'leno' (an owner of prostitutes) who bought the girls as slaves, primarily from the East.  Have times changes?

The illustrations on the walls and doors of the rooms  advertised the specialties of the local prostitutes.  There were many erotic pictures found in Pompeii.  Some "mythological"  paintings were appreciated by the Roman upper class.

Others were more instructional.

Still others were advertising.

All quite explicit.  Priapus was a favourite character.

Maybe the first "Beware of the Dog" sign in mosaic at the door of a small villa.  It's behind glass so the reflective glare partially obscures his ferocious head and teeth.  But I think he's wagging his tail.

On the edge of the forum were areas/rooms packed full of archeological findings.  A tragedy that left an incredible wealth of intact artifacts still being unearthed along with an amazingly clear vision of life in the first century.

A striking body cast - praying?  Seems appropriate.

Pompeii was an amazing insight into first century daily life.  A city immobilized in a single day.  Incredible!  I only wish that it hadn't been 35 degrees with no shade.  We saw a lot but would've seen more in spring or fall.  Don't go in summer - even June, when we went is too damn hot!!