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| Milly is a tiny dot, among many in Rade de Villefranche where are not so great day began. |
Lately we have been plagued with some motor issues. Being a catamaran we have two motors - catamaran owners feel quite smug that we have a back up motor in case one breaks down, unlike poor monohull owners. All sailors like to have back ups on board, filling the boat with parts and tools to fix the parts. Each of our engines has a problem - so much for back ups. Our port engine had a coolant leak and ran hot a couple of times. Peter changed the coolant on both engines and tightened the taps/“nipples”. One leak persisted, even after burping air bubbles out of the system. Peter tightened the plastic tap, reluctantly and gently for fear of breaking it, while we searched every town for a new one, finally finding a very friendly boatyard guy in Elba who got us two - one for a back up. We also noticed that our starboard engine was eating oil. Our routine for leaving an anchorage for the last week or so has, therefore, included fastidiously checking oil levels and coolant levels on both engines.
We were anchored in Rade de Villefranche, off Villefrance Sur Mer, a gorgeous bay on the French Riviera between Nice and Monaco. The village sits at the end of the deep bay complete with citadel. Although, the slopes of the steep sides are dotted with villas they are tasteful and with enough property that there are trees, woods and gardens- Rothschilds, Rolling Stones and David Niven’s among them. The water is exceptionally clear and although the bottom is covered with thick weed we had found a small patch of sand into which our anchor was embedded exactly in the middle. We felt confident enough that Milly would stay put that we spent a day at Rothschild’s, another biking to Nice and a third taking the bus to Monaco while we waited out a very persistent mistral blowing fiercely through the Gulf of Lyons and the Gulf of Genoa creating increasing and confused seas. We had swell but very little else making it tough to believe that the seas were so ghastly not far offshore.
On the morning of September 9, we thought it was time to move on. The forecast was for little wind during the day close to the coast but a strong easterly wind with all day rain and thunderstorms, beginning in 24 hours and requiring an anchorage protected from the east. The mistral continued to rage offshore.
Now for the blow by blow of our day:
Peter checked the oil on starboard engine. A little low. Found oil on the oil pressure sensor. This was a part of the engine, not yet learned by necessity because of breakdown. (Peter is gradually becoming an expert as different systems within the motor have problems. Even I know much more about diesel engines than I ever wanted to.) He was uncertain of how to fix this or what exactly the problem was.
Check coolant level on port engine. Low. Definite yellow tinge to liquid in the bilge. Coolant at one of the taps. On drying it off, it broke off in Peter’s hand (Glad it wasn’t mine). Shit! This meant half of the tap was still screwed into the coolant pipe with no way of turning it to get it out. And it was leaking slowly!
Quick look on internet. Antibes, just 14 NM away, had a Volvo Penta service provider and shop and a huge marina with a load of services. I anticipated getting our motors fixed and a few more of our TransAtlantic jobs done, a thorough provisioning of French delicacies, boat cleanse, body cleanse in fresh water, laundry etc. etc. Phone did not connect to marina reservation line. Emailed requesting a berth.
Went forward to raise the anchor. We had recently rebuilt our windlass. The chain stripper had torn out of the base, stripping the screws. Again, we had searched multiple ports to get a new part. Not until we were three weeks in Rome did we stick around in one port long enough to have the part sent. Rebuilding the windlass for the first time took a few days, not a few hours as anticipated, and now we both know much more about the working of windlasses. Anyway, today, I noticed that the chain was sticking and getting caught under the stripper more often. I felt the stripper and noticed that it was loose again. Motion to Peter at the helm who took apart some of the pieces to get at the screws to tighten said chain stripper.
Motored a couple of hours in lovely weather past Nice to Antibes. Radioed marina. Marinero reported that he didn’t think there was room for us. Gave us a phone number. Called number - not in service.
Anchored in area near town that would be ok until strong east wind arrived. Couldn’t see bottom so uncertain if weed or sand but anchor held. We were about 200 meters off a rocky shore.
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| Just one of the super yachts that kept us company at Antibes. Big enough to have it's own cruising keel boat on deck! We prefer that to helicopters...but it probably had that, too. |
Long dinghy ride to enormous marina with many super yachts. Welcomed kindly but no room for at least four days for a catamaran. Must have seen disappointment in eyes because asked us to call early in a.m. and they’d see what they could do.
Went to Volvo Penta shop. Found spare parts minus one. Service technician not available for one week! No point in staying in Antibes any longer. We needed to find a dealer/service provider. Very apologetic staff. Directed us to next shop for another part.
Walked few blocks around marina and found multiple chandleries and helpful people. Very exciting. Purchased some parts on TransAtlantic list. Crossed off list. Felt good.
Had lunch (by this time it was 5:00 p.m.) outside at bistro. Good natured staff, smiling at our indecision.
Discussed approach to engines. Peter felt he might be able to YouTube etc to learn how to fix oil leak without damaging anything. Also, felt he could get broken tap out of the pipe. Ok. We would stay anchored where we were and leave before forecasted high wind at 9 a.m.
Peter investigated a fix. Nothing on YouTube but after studying diagrams he thinks he can do it. Tightened oil sensor a tiny bit. Put screw inside broken tap for coolant - no more leaking, but screw is definitely a jury rig. Doesn't feel good, doesn't look good.
I investigated other marinas near by with Volvo Penta service. Emailed three.
Calm night. Only five super yachts in anchorage with us.
At about 3 a.m. woken by waves on the beam, meaning we were rocking back and forth. Waves in the Mediterranean are almost always short and steep - very rarely big, gentle ocean swells with long period. This means that the rock in bed is vigorous and jerky making sleep restless, to say the least. Along with the rock came some knocks and thuds with intermittent squeaks which got louder and louder. Peter got up to investigate - the boom was not tight enough. Preventer put on, main sheet and topping lift tightened. Thudding noise lessened but groan began as preventer tightened on cleat. We had left fenders on deck attached to lifelines where they had been prepared for marina and left in anticipation of moving to marina next day. More noise with occasional big bangs. I got up to investigate. Fenders rolling and one had rolled off and was banging on the freeboard. Rearranged fenders. A wood panel on our salon floor has also developed a creak in the past while. Walking on it or movement like waves on the beam makes it creak - fixing it is one of the jobs to be done before crossing the ocean as it is a noise that can get in your head and make you crazy. The creak was madly making music. Return to bed. Noises seemed to ramp up. I get the giggles.
By this time it was 5:30 or so. I couldn’t sleep. Got up to wait for dawn. Red sky in the morning! Oh, oh! Lightning to the west. Wind changed to east so we swung toward rock quay. I told Peter that we should go. I prepared boat. Put all electronics in oven/Faraday cage.
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| Antibes anchorage, Cannes? in the distance. Foul weather approaching. |
Waves mounting. I told Peter again that we should go, no joke! He was still snoozing.
Raised anchor with only a little difficulty in high wind and big waves. Chain stripper working well.
Motored around point with several super yachts, all trying to find shelter. Took large waves on beam - slight seasickness. Forked lightning to west, south and east.
Entered bay of refuge where large number of boats anchored. Found great spot in high wind but all-important flat water. Anchored in weed? or sand? but with good holding. Peter went back to bed. Downpour, lightning. Filled all water containers, cleaned.
Good tour of Antibes chandleries but old town left unexplored.
September 9th-10th, 2019
Villefranche-Sur-Mer to Antibes to refuge at Port du Crouton
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