Bonaire on Repeat

A blow hole at the northern tip of Bonaire on our first of a few explorations with new friends.

Our unexpected boat work had kept us a month in Grenada.  Our friends in Curacao who we had planned to meet up with had moved on to explore further afield.  The ABC’s are a good stepping stone on our way to Panama.  So which one to choose?  In the fall of 2016, we spent about a month playing in Bonaire.  We were with six other cruising boats who we had met in Grenada and became fast and firm friends with.  Many of us carried on to Columbia for further land adventures.  Peter and I had such great memories of Bonaire that it was easy to choose it as our midway point.  We intended to stop for a week to ten days - dive, hike and bike.

Flamingos, one of thousands, that make Bonaire their home.  Ranging in colour from almost white to deep peachy pink.

In theory at least, Bonaire prides itself as an ecotourism destination and islanders are serious about conserving Bonaire's natural beauty including the flamingos.

They are sociable creatures usually in large groups.

Our passage to Bonaire took just over three days, arriving in the morning of our fourth day.  We had a comfortable downwind sail but Milly was not through with her complaints.  The webbing on the tack of our screecher tore making it unusable and meant that we could only use our Genoa instead of sailing wing-on-wing.  Our sump pump to drain our shower - a treat after a hot day on passage - stopped pumping.  Our fresh water pump became first erratic, then only worked by manually turning it off and on at the electrical panel.  Our toilet outlet in the guest head cracked and leaked.  And our port engine was leaking coolant in an elusive spot that we could not find.

The harvested salt from the salt pans looks like snow, a strange sight in an incredibly barren and hot land.  The pans become pinker as they get more concentrated.  Pink water on one side, crystal clear blue sea on the other.  And billowing salt suds, like soap suds from a washing machine gone crazy, blowing across the road between the two water bodies, where we were cycling.

Over a thousand wild donkeys wander the island and look at us as curiously as we look at them.  We admire.  They probably don't reciprocate.  

These thorny yatu cacti make effective fences, keeping the donkey and human riffraff out.  Only the birds seem to manage to perch on top without ado.

.... and maybe these guys who are also all over the place.  This and two other hang out at the marina garbage, waiting for edibles. 

As we approached the large protected mooring field at Kralendijk, the sudden squall that had reduced visibility to 100m cleared to unveil two huge cruise ships dominating the town and harbour and towering over the two story high-rises of the town. 

A shock and, admittedly a sore-point, were the cruise ships stacked at the waters edge in town.  The one in the foreground is relatively small!  The dock are about 200m from the end of the mooring field.  Skilled driving was needed and demonstrated.

Several birthday/Christmas presents to Peter who has been hankering for a simply stored boat to sail around the anchorage.  Inspired by Tom this summer at the cottage who winged back and forth with ease, this wing foil has proved not as simple to sail as it is to store.  We are on a steep learning curve, first to learn to balance as one of us is pulled behind the dinghy.  When we finally do manage to foil, we last a few seconds before splashing.  (By the way, it's upside down on Milly's deck here.  So far no action pics.  We're too busy driving the dinghy or falling)

On the very positive side friends on Yacht O, who we had not seen since 2020 in Grenada greeted us in their dinghy and led Milly to a mooring ball which they had saved for us.  To prevent damage to coral, yachts are forbidden to anchor anywhere along Bonaire’s coast which is designated as a marine park.  In previous weeks/months, the mooring balls were in such demand that boats were forced to wait for days/weeks in the marina.  We were extremely lucky to have O on the lookout for us and actually, on the day of arrival, had three to choose from.

As a group and for those who want, the cruisers have at their disposal a truck to rent by the day for $20.  Provisioning, touring and truck diving made easy.  The truck seats four comfortably, five with a pinch, but, of course, we were most often six.  Two rode in the back.  This time it was Peter's turn.

A hike to the highest peak, Mt. Bandaris.  At 784 feet, it wasn't too high but the climb was steep over rock.  We were swept by a stiff wind at the top.

The island is barren. Unless planted in a garden, most of the green is from scrub and cacti.  This is the "longest" vs highest tree on the island.  Swept by the strong, consistent trade winds, it grows horizontally.

Our initial reaction to our return to Bonaire was tinged with disappointment.  The cruise ships were definitely “in your face” and hard to ignore, the mooring field was full and our time was dominated for the first ten days with scouting out parts and boat work which seemed to lead to more boat work.  And we missed the carefree frolic with our friends of years past.  O left for Puerto Rico, after a brief overlap for sundowners so we were on our own.

Another hike to one of the estimated 400 caves in Bonaire.  This one was deep and dark.  Bats fluttered around us.

I kept my hat firmly on head.

Paintings from Amerindian people, probably painted prior to Spanish explorers claiming the island as their own in 1499, are still evident.

Amazing that we and any one else could just wander in.  No signs or plaques.  Reminded us of the ruins, temples and graves that dot the Turkish countryside, accessible to any and all who care to check them out.

The growth of stalactites. One cm in 100 years?

New found friends made our stay in Bonaire a real pleasure!

However, as always in cruising life, we met a Swiss boat, iCat, and a German boat, Queen Emma, who were friends of other dear cruising friends and our life became very busy with shared hiking, biking and snorkelling.  And food and drink.  We were having such a lovely time with them that we were happy that weather and boat work delayed our departure so we could celebrate Christmas and New Years with new friends.  (During COVID time when we have stayed put longer than we usually do - weeks and months compared to overnight or days, we have found that as we spend more time, we meet more cruisers and so have much more of a social life.  It becomes more difficult to pull ourselves away.). The cruise ships gradually faded into the distance.  And, again, we loved Bonaire.

Lionfish are a menace to life on Caribbean reefs.  In places like Carriacou and Bonaire, where spear fishing is banned to tourists, lion fish hunting is encouraged.  We went on a lion fish hunt in Carriacou and received a Padi certificate as a result.  Here, we didn't do the hunting but we enjoyed a burger at a celebrated food truck on the sea.

Christmas Eve dinner at a delicious tapas restaurant.  White wine, no aquavit.  We had it for New Year's Eve, hosting dinner on Milly.

We biked to one of few farms where spinach seemed to be taking over in a riot of 8 foot vines.  

Peter enjoying iguana stew, much to the distress of our veterinary friend.  It tastes like chicken - of course - with tiny, bothersome bones.  It was billed as an aphrodisiac.

Christmas Eve in Bonaire.  We missed our children but had a great time with good friends.

The Christmas winds which we had wanted to avoid on our passage to Panama were well established.  The infamous pocket of foul weather along the Columbian coast was almost permanent at this time of year.  Gale force winds kick up enormous waves and swell.  We were looking for a drop in the wind speed and a smaller patch of no-go area.  January 4th was the day.  Our friends headed north to Dominican Republic, three boats in a convoy, and we headed west, excited to reach the first previously unvisited country since leaving Cabo Verde in January 2020.  Panama here we come.

Setting up for a group photo...

...the timer is ticking.

On a bike ride around the southern tip, we saw many sculptures made from the flotsam that came ashore.  He is an especially good one.

Good-bye, Bonaire.

Milly Missed Us...And Complained

 

Milly going back to sea.  She made it clear that she was a little peeved at being on the hard for five months.

After five months in Canada, it was time to return to Milly, waiting on the hard in Grenada. 

Grenada had experienced a sharp spike in Covid cases as we were planning our return.  Instead of hanging out while getting a new canvas enclosure made, we decided to get Milly in the water as soon as possible and leave Grenada for Curacao where a couple of our best boat friends were anchored.  This meant that we would get the boatyard guys to do the work we(Peter) would normally do before splashing.  We also wanted to finally fumigate the interior to get rid of an infestation of powder post beetles that had been diagnosed the previous year.

Returning to Grenada meant jumping through the many hoops that travel now demands.  PCR tests, applications, multiple forms timed just so to coincide with departure and arrival.  Lines and chaos were the order of the early morning in YYZ.  All the passengers in the airport seemed to be squeezed into the check-in aisle with southbound planes - a sure sign of approaching winter - including us.  Certainly no social distancing although piles of luggage kept us safe fore and aft.  Abeam was the squeeze.  

The officials who met us at the Grenada airport were organized and efficient in the slower island manner - it was great to be back.  We were retested at the airport and taken by special approved taxi to our quarantine hotel where we sequestered for the required two nights.  

Ahhhh, at anchor again in Prickly Bay.

After 36 hours, we were allowed to visit Milly who looked and smelled clean and polished inside.  All my efforts to rinse or polish every surface had paid off.  No mildew or mould - we could’ve hosted guests - apart from very small piles of powdered wood around the floors’ edges.  The outside was covered in five months worth of boatyard dust but with soap and water and a good brush, Milly would be ready for the sea.

Fumigation had not taken place in our absence as we had requested.  The pest guy who always visited immaculately dressed in button down shirt, chinos and loafers to do his hot, filthy job - came and said it would require three sprays over three weeks.  We agreed to two over ten days.  One spray of the whole boat was done over two days.  We had to move everything that could be removed to our overcrowded room or to the other side of the boat.  Including mattresses, clothes, shoes, cushions, tools, all kitchen stuff, toiletries  - everything!!  And then back again. And then back again.  And then back again.  He sprayed so much poison, it looked like it had poured with rain inside.  It dried over 24 hours leaving a fine white powdery residue.  It was ghastly!  My sweat to clean was to almost no avail - but at least there was no mould.  Lots of powder but no mildew.  So again, I washed and polished every surface this time in the boatyard in 35 degree heat.  Luckily, we still had our room with AC and shower.  

Meanwhile, Peter was polishing Milly’s hull, checking through hulls, replacing anodes on the rudder etc. etc.  Our delay getting Milly into the water gave him time to spit and polish the outside, making Milly shine.  

A visitor at anchor at St Georges.

Finally, it was time to put her in the water.  Always exciting.  However, for the first time, the dripless collars, which the boatyard guys had replaced, were leaking on both engine shafts.  Argh.  It was a Friday.  The manager of the yard told us to motor around to see if it would plug itself up! and call on Monday.  We followed direction, sceptical of a magical cure and, unfortunately, we were right.  No luck.  But it sure was nice to be at anchor.  And the leaks were small, worse with motor on.  Otherwise, not concerning.  Monday came.  The manager scheduled poor Milly for another haul out on Tuesday.  Work accomplished in the morning and back in the water by mid afternoon.  Expensive but successful.

We worked all day, every day but sat to enjoy some glorious sunsets.  

Although Milly's hull and rigging were sound, she was complaining that her 7 year old parts were in need of retirement - both water makers were nonfunctioning.  So much for having a spare.  The parts required were not available on the island and we didn't want to wait for 4 weeks for delivery.  We would fill up with Grenada water and be diligent about consumption.

We were almost ready for our three day passage to Curacao.  I had been walking and busing to reprovision the boat over several days.  Apart from a few canned goods, I had emptied our pantry and six bins of all items that were not sealed in glass or cans.  Provisioning was a major task.  Usually before a passage, I make and freeze several meals that are ready to eat.  I did a couple but wasn’t as well prepared as usual. But we were anxious to be off. We wouldn't starve. 

Good-bye, Grenada.  It's time to sail west...

We cleared out, did our antigen test, completed online forms and headed out to sea for the first time in almost two years.  It felt great.  The winds were light so we were motor sailing with swell on the starboard beam.  About three hours offshore, we heard the starboard rudder shuddering as it turned.  Peter investigated and diagnosed a loose bearing in the rudder stock.  We considered the choices: onward for a three day passage cringing at every shudder or turn around for a three hour motor and, hopefully, a fix.  The captain decided to turn and the first mate agreed without hesitation.  Back to Grenada.  After two years, it just didn’t want to let go.

Hello... again, Grenada.  You've been good to us, but please let us go.  Back to Prickly Bay.

A call to our new friend, the yard manager, brought him to us on a boat-call on a Saturday.  We were impressed.  He said the rudder could have lasted for another season or two but we don’t like sailing with our fingers crossed.  He thought Milly had to be hauled out again to do the job but after investigating through the Antares owners forum - an exceptional resource - and the boat builder who after seven years still replies immediately which is amazing, we confirmed that the replacement could be done in the water.  Back to Prickly Bay, finally an appointment on Wednesday, manager brought up to speed on removing the rudder cap, manufacturing the bearing based on measurements taken, popping new bearing in and - ta da - mission accomplished.    

Ready to go but no wind!!  Waited several days.  More provisioning, laundry, socializing and, finally, departure.  This time, Grenada let us go.  Our friends had already left Curacao so we picked our favourite of the ABC's.  Destination: Bonaire.

This time it's a go!

Summer Doings

Our Canadian home

Peter and I spent five months in Canada this year!  A record for us since starting our Milly adventure in November, 2014.  We enjoyed every minute of our stay - motoring between the cottage on Stony Lake, Em and Gid's home in Toronto, friends in Thornbury, Orillia and Bancroft and family in Waterloo and Danford Lake, Quebec.  We gave the cottage some TLC, celebrated Tom's olympic send off and success, learned of and excitedly anticipated the birth of our first grandbabe, and gave and received a lot of hugs.  We plan on making a trek back to Ontario to enjoy the Canadian summer, at least for the foreseeable future.  

Here are a few of many pics to get you updated to October 31 (I have been very negligent.):

Arrived at YYZ and received our PCR test with great efficiency.  Then bedlam began to get on and in the shuttle bus to our quarantine hotel, complete with (comfy) uniform and (pretty good) meals in cardboard.  

Our first views of home was not beautiful.  Concrete wasteland!

Sweet Emily, from a distance, delivered our new-to-us car which she had test driven and arranged purchasing for in our absence.  She also completed a long re-provisioning list for our 8 day quarantine at the cottage.  Wonderful daughter!

The season officially opens with the raising of the flag.  Summer has begun and we are in residence!

Peace and tranquility

Emily's traditional birthday celebration...

This time with dealc champagne.  She's pregnant!!  Yay!

So nice for me to be able to bake my girl a cake again in my mum's cake mold and plate.

A sailpast celebration at RCYC to send off the Olympians.  So wonderful to be included and see our boy off to Japan.

The t-shirt says it all.  We took him to the airport...

And cheered ...

And cheered!  Our annual cottage weekend with special friends was on again after a seven year hiatus.  And they cheered too!

Peter rebuilt his many inuksuks

And I began to replant my gardens

We completed our first carpentry job, learning to level, use a table saw and plumb.  Not sure how we ever did without an outdoor shower.

We enjoyed nature....

Watching Tom relax after placing 10th! at the olympics

...and dog-sitting for our most frequent guest, Stevie Nicks.  We loved her company.

And I think she loved ours, being allowed to go where no dog had been before.

The two hungry ones watching the dinner prep.

She loved everyone and everyone loved her.  Here with Tom and his girlfriend, Fernanda, visiting from Mexico.

We visited dear friends multiple times at their country home - lucky us

And took Stevie along

She loved it as much as we did.

We took three trips to Waterloo to visit with Peter's Dad and Liz.  This one particularly special with a luxurious overnight treat at Langdon Hall in Lisa and David's company.

Me following my big bro, Tim, just like I did as a little kid, on a superb hike in the Gatineau Hills

Neal and I still going up

A grand summer at Stony

Good night

See you next summer!